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OT: UV adhesives

I've been playing around with some Chinese UV adhesive- it seems to be an acrylic resin mixture (not much info in English, no MSDS etc.) . smells fruity like acrylic adhesives. Supposed to be for glass and plastic.

Anyway, it polymerizes pretty smartly when I hit it with light from a

10W 390-400nm- sorta UV LED, but the surface retains kind of an oily film on it, and the result is dull if the film is wiped off.

Is this normal behavior for such resins?

Such info as I can find for the product refers to exposure to

220-260nm UV-C curing but a minute or so exposure to a germicidal 6W flourescent (should be ~253nm) seems to do nothing (still liquid).

--sp

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Best regards,  
Spehro Pefhany 
Amazon link for AoE 3rd Edition:            http://tinyurl.com/ntrpwu8
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany
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When they are expired a long tome Loctite versions act that way..

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

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Reply to
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred

I have encountered a tacky problem with regular two part fiberglass epoxy. The solution was to wipe it down with vinegar. My father used vinegar to harden film emulsion that stayed too long in the rinse tank.

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Boris
Reply to
Boris Mohar

That film might be 'Amine Blush' If it continues to come to the surface over the couse of a few days/weeks, then it is.

Fast cure usually has more Amine Blush than slow curing.

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

I use this stuff for small glue jobs. Specifically says that it has a non-sticky surface when cured. Works well.

Diamond Hard from:

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Reply to
Adrian Jansen

I watched first fly tying video... Now I'm worn out. Mikek

Reply to
amdx

More tiring watching the inane videos on most stuff than just doing the job...

Reply to
Adrian Jansen

Exposure to oxygen inhibits the cure with some polyester resins.

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See the section on oxygen inhibition

There's a lot of meat in "Mitigation of Oxygen Inhibition in UV LED, UVA, and Low Intensity UV Cure"

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Grizzly H.
Reply to
mixed nuts

Thanks! Maybe I'll try some of the Loctite stuff as a reference, though they're fairly proud of their products.

I see 349, 352, 363 and 366 in 50g bottles. Any thought (for general purpose use) which would be best?

--sp

P.S. on the 349 type, the following shows up in the datasheet:

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TYPICAL CURING PERFORMANCE 
This product is cured when exposed to UV radiation of 365nm. 
To obtain a full cure on surfaces exposed to air radiation at 
250nm is also required. The speed of cure will depend on the 
UV intensity as measured at the product surface. Typical cure 

pressure, quartz envelope, mercury vapor lamp.
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

Can you get rid of the air surface? Stick something on the top? (Is it the oxygen that is bad? Could you cure in some inert atmosphere... N2?)

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

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