OT: Testing fuses

He does his homework, which is rarer than it should be.

Obviously an invented statistic. That would imply that the perceptive minor ity would be three standard deviations away from the mean, as in an IQ of 1

35 (not that everybody with an IQ of 135 would have enough interest in fuse s to know how they work).

all > we can reasonably expect.

This would be a bit silly. The principle of a fuse is that you put enough e nergy into a resistive element to at least melt it (so that it loses the me chanical strength to stay in place as a continuous lump of conducting metal ).

If you want it to blow fast, you have to put in enough energy to boil it, s o that its vapour pressure blows it out of the way - and if the voltage acr oss the terminals is high enough the vapour can sustain an arc discharge wh ich limits the breaking capacity of the fuse.

In any event, a fuse obviously can't blow instantaneously because you can't put in an infinite amount of energy.

A chunk of the "fake" business is probably people stealing junk from manufa cturer's reject bins and selling it on without mentioning where it came fro m.

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Bill Sloman, Sydney
Reply to
bill.sloman
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PERFECT way to test a fuse: turn up the current until it blows. Works every time...

Reply to
Robert Baer

I can't find the current adjustment on any of my fuses.

Do you mean it works more than once?

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Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

It's not that simple, though. There's a significant time factor as stated in the charts Jeff linked to. Today I finally did a quick and dirty test of those Ebay fuses. I just set the PSU at 10A (the same as the fuse rating) and sequentially tried them all for a few seconds each. one in four went 'phut' immediately; the rest didn't blow. I'm not quite sure what that, of a useful nature tells me, if anything. I was initially inclined to think they were a good batch on the whole, but now I'm really not so sure.... I can't be bothered to wait up to 600 seconds per fuse to do the test properly.

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Reply to
Cursitor Doom

The phutter was a dud. The rest who knows - if the same batch they're probably almost as bad.

NT

Reply to
tabbypurr

Well, at least they protect to a great extent, but clearly no use for continuous operation close to the rated 10A which a 'proper' fuse would be.

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Reply to
Cursitor Doom

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to

Less destructive would be to apply power until the resistance of the fusibl e link rises appreciably (probably with a four terminal - Kelvin - rig). Me asure the time it took to get there. Turn off the heating power and keep me asuring the resistance as it cools down.

Electronics works a lot faster than fuses.

You might have to measure the resistance of the fusible link as function of temperature to get a precise idea of what was going on.

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Bill Sloman, Sydney
Reply to
bill.sloman

What did you use to connect the fuse to the power supply? If it was a matching heavy duty fuse receptacle, with thick heavy wires, and connected to the power supply with soldered spade lugs, you're doing it right. If it was a pair of alligator clips, clean up your mess and do it the right way by building a proper fixture.

It tells me that either the fuse or the operator has a loose connection. At this point, I suspect the latter.

How amps will your power supply deliver? More than 10A will speed up the test.

--
Jeff Liebermann     jeffl@cruzio.com 
150 Felker St #D    http://www.LearnByDestroying.com 
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com 
Skype: JeffLiebermann     AE6KS    831-336-2558
Reply to
Jeff Liebermann

You might try just measuring the resistance of each fuse and comparing the reading to the resistance of the fuses that did not go phut. That should o nly take seconds for each fuse. You might find most of them cluster in one of two groups. Then test to see which bunch are 10 amp fuses and what the other bunch is .

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

The first scenario, except I used pro crimped spade connectors to plug the fuses directly into.

I've been using my old Lamda (made in NYC) thus far; tops-out at 10A. I've also got a Manson 25A 17V supply with full v & c independent settings, but it's been powering an embedded app on and off for the past

6 years so I'm loathed to take it out for measurement.
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Reply to
Cursitor Doom

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