OT My second electric bike

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Assuming it works... The structure holding the drill is two pieces of aluminum flatbar and eight bolts. Bought a long, mountain bike seat post to help reinforce the aluminum tube. Besides being longer than usual, the seatpost is 2/10 of a millimeter greater diameter than it's supposed to be, it's a very snug fit into the shaft. The simplicity and functionality of the drill holder is hugely better than the first bike. Barely tightening the bolts and it's a very sturdy fit. Some superglue might be added where the flatbar meets the tube, and maybe some hot melt glue to the drill handle area.

Next and last is making the trigger controller. On eBay, somebody wraps a bike handgrip cable around the drill and then around the trigger. But it might be done simply by connecting the cable sleeve to the trigger and securing the end of the cable just beyond the trigger (towards the back of the drill).

Someday, adding a spring to the drive train would be useful. As is, power must be engaged carefully.

Reply to
John Doe
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Pictures have been added. So far, so so. Have taken it around the block a few times, and taken it about 2 miles to and from the store. The DCD995 gearcase makes more noise than the DCD780. It's more powerful and top speed is higher. The gearcase seems to get warm easily. I'm using Park Tool grease in the gearcase. Strangely, there seems to be no slapping/banging against the freewheel pawls when throttle is applied. This time I'm using a derailer for the chain tensioner instead of using a homemade semi-rigid chain tensioner. But I don't understand how that stops the banging when the sprocket catches up to the wheel speed. Maybe it has something to do with the brushless motor. Whatever, if it is as it seems to be, that's great. Still to be determined is top speed, miles per amp hour, and durability.

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Reply to
John Doe

On Thu, 5 May 2016 03:05:13 -0000 (UTC), John Doe Gave us:

Dude, you are almost at the same level as Skybuck Flying.

You could have saved pennies in a piggy bank and gotten together enough for a hub motor AND a battery by now.

You'll be lucky to get a 200 foot range with that at 3 miles an hour.

An old 50s style automotive generator configured as a motor would do better. I made a go-cart with one back in '72.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

On Thu, 5 May 2016 03:05:13 -0000 (UTC), John Doe Gave us:

You should try whale oil.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

Regular troll...

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Reply to
John Doe

This post shows how little the tough guy wannabe AlwaysWrong knows about the subjects it comments on. In fact, my first such bike gets 1 mile per amp hour. That's 10 miles on two batteries.

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DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno  wrote in news:91gliblnc85t5t9pcu8fch1201u3hn7b9p 4ax.com: 

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Reply to
John Doe

On Thu, 5 May 2016 07:40:28 -0000 (UTC), John Doe Gave us:

You are just pissed because I properly pegged you as being even more stupid than the group invading Skybuck idiot is.

What you did is not a metalworking craft, nor is it electronics, dipshit. Go the f*ck away, boy.

Nor is it a viable method of propulsion for even a single human.

You are so stupid, you likely do not even know what a sun gear is.

And you are a stupid Usenet top posting retard, AND you are a stupid Usenet group adding dumbfuck.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

What do you have against peddling?

Reply to
bloggs.fredbloggs.fred

What was the first bike like?

How far do you get on a charge, for each bike?

Michael

Reply to
mrdarrett

On Thu, 5 May 2016 07:38:50 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

He is a lard ass who would rather pollute the air with his cow farts.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

On Thu, 5 May 2016 12:01:40 -0700 (PDT), snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Gave us:

He started spewing this 'drill motor on a bike' crap in this group some months ago, and apparently after wasting yet more cash, we are now seeing his second declaration of "I do not know much about physics".

The guy is a real lost pup... err... lard ass.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

Hopefully the third attempt will be with a motor made for RC cars and Planes and also made for continuous use. In the same search you will find speed controllers. No names, just a IMHO a better route to take.

Mikek

Reply to
amdx

On Thu, 5 May 2016 15:03:57 -0500, amdx Gave us:

Ebay is full of suitable motors and LiFePO4 is the new battery standard, and they hold voltage right up to the bitter end before they avalanche (I thought that was something only snow did :-)).

Probably working on near zero budget and spends way too much on food. The idiot certainly knows nothing about Usenet posting conventions.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

This ought to make a robust E-bike...

...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

ebikes will probably mostly run sensor-less, less parts and wires that can fail if the object is to get an ebike, just buy a hubmotor kit on ebay

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

This was self-commutated with voltage feedback from each phase... only components were three N-channel PowerMOS, three resistors for voltage isolation, two resistors for chip protection and timing, a timing

blower. ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

Den torsdag den 5. maj 2016 kl. 22.59.10 UTC+2 skrev Jim Thompson:

s:

up

now

.

an fail

my bad, at a glance the transistors looked like hall switches

to get the most out of the motor for something like a bike you'd want to use bipolar drive with 6 transistors

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

On Thu, 05 May 2016 13:37:36 -0700, Jim Thompson Gave us:

Cheaper just to buy one.

This bike (link below) has a $1300 high end bike as its underpinnings, so the $1000 more the electronic add on package costs is worth it, considering what you get for their engineering time and it is a complete package, not some lame, slapped together with straps and bolts menagerie/monstrosity. It's NOT alive... It's NOT alive!

This one, however, IS very much ALIVE!

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Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

This motor was Y-wound, center to V+, which made it easy to commutate when a winding was let loose.... about 360W max... what does it take to drive a bike? ...Jim Thompson

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| James E.Thompson                                 |    mens     | 
| Analog Innovations                               |     et      | 
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Reply to
Jim Thompson

On Thu, 05 May 2016 14:50:28 -0700, Jim Thompson Gave us:

At least twice that figure if you do not want to get laughed at and passed up by skate boarders.

Reply to
DecadentLinuxUserNumeroUno

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