OT: Camera lens (optics) cleaning

I am a big fan of pre-moistened wipes - Wet Ones, Off insect repellent, etc... I always keep a few in my camera bag.

I am now wondering if anyone has ever had any issues with Zeiss lens cleaning wipes? Link:

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There are purists out there who claim that absolutely nothing should ever touch the optics on a camera lens. But we all know that lenses occasionally need more "cleaning" than a simple dust-off can do. With TSA clamping down on liquids aboard aircraft, I just want to hear what others think about pre-moistened wipes for field-use. Plus, I never liked the idea of carrying liquids around in the pack, even 2 oz. of lens fluid.

Thanks, mpm

Reply to
mpm
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There are optical coatings on lenses that can be scratched with the wrong cleaning approach. I'd stic to the recommended cloth and cleaning solutions if you want the glass to last . But if it has Zeiss stamped on it, it must be good.

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

I've seen Windex used with "lens cleaning tissues" which are kind of like cigarette papers but thinner.

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

For travel, lens pen. Or, just carry around a microfiber cloth in a bag. Microfiber cloth magically lifts oils.

Reply to
qrk

Windex has ammonia. You never never never never use windex with precision optics. Did I mention never?

Most manufacturers suggest pure isopropyl (electronics grade will do) or grain. Once in a while you see acetone suggested, mostly in cleaning filters. Not my choice due to the smell and reaction with plastics, though in their defense there is no plastic in an optical filter.

Cotton balls are generally considered the best applicator. I suppose a cotton swab will do, but you really want to have a lot of cotton on the end for cushioning.

Reply to
miso

As Miso said, Windex is a no-no, because it can corrode the coatings. The next worst thing is grinding dust into the surface. Surface impefections tend to scatter light in proportion to their perimeter rather than their area, so dragging a piece of grit across the lens surface will not make it work better.

Paper made from wood or cotton contains a lot of silica, which makes it abrasive. (That's why your Mom never let you cut paper with her sewing scissors.)

I generally use compressed air (clean nitrogen in the old days, but I don't have a Dewar at this point) followed by a bit of heavy breathing and a microfibre cloth. For solvent, Everclear is a lot better than rubbing alcohol, but what you really want is electronics-grade ethanol, with electronics-grade acetone as a backup.

For things like laser Brewster windows, which are inside the resonator and made of uncoated fused silica, you sometimes want to use a drop of e-grade acetone on a sheet of lens paper and just drag it across the surface, like dragging a tarp full of leaves.

Really badly fouled optics may need ultrasonicating in alcohol, then acetone, then mild aqueous detergent. (Think Joy liquid, not Alconox.) The trap for young players, as Dave Jones would say, is to ultrasonicate a lens that's sitting on its optical surface. You'll only do that once.

Cheers

Phil Hobbs

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Dr Philip C D Hobbs
Principal Consultant
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Reply to
Phil Hobbs

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I notice these Zeiss wipes I purchased have a camera icon on the box and the term "camera lenses" buried in the text, but it seems they're really intended for eyeglasses. That said, Zeiss does offer wipes specifically for cameras - which is what I thought these were at the time. But for all I know, there's no difference but the packaging..??? I wouldn't put it past them. (Same thing, different box, ten times the price!!) I try to research if the other Zeiss wipes are different.

That said, the UPC=3D6-62834-50058-5 box of 50 wipes lists isopropyl alcohol as the agent.

The isopropyl smell is unmistakable. The paper is a bit weird. A little hard to explain. It's not scratchy, but seems "stiffer" than you would expect. Not cotton-y or fiberous either - unless you purposly rip it, in which case the edges are definitely fiberous. If I had a decent microscope or USB camerascope I'd image it. But hopefully you get the idea.

I've not used them on my camera optics yet - more research is required first. But like I said, I do like the thought of pre-moistened wipes vs. a bottle of lens fluid in the pack.

And it's not like my lenses are super-expensive - most are around $600, but I'd like to take good care of them.

Thanks, mpm

Reply to
mpm

Lenses are such that you need to spend a great deal of money for marginal improvements, so don't dis' what you have. [Prime lenses will always outperform a zoom, uh unless you miss the shot because you had the wrong focal length. You need to look at the MTF of the lens to get the whole picture.] Generally if a $600 lens isn't enough, you probably need a lens that is a few kilobucks.

Unless you need something to carry in your pocket, cotton balls are the way to go. They are cheap and will not scratch the optics. I put the cotton balls in a "lock and lock" case to keep them clean. I don't like microfiber cloths because I want to toss the applicator after each use. Cotton balls, because they are often use medically, are 100% cotton. Nothing is added to the product to sex it up.

I should point out that some isopropyl may have additives to prevent drying out the skin. That is why you buy the electronics grade.

Regarding compress air, I use a scuba tank and buy air at the scuba store. Unlike canned air, there is no refrigerant to sneak out if you don't hold the scuba tank flat. The tanks and regulators are easy to find used, especially heavy steel tanks. Certainly under $100 for the whole set up. Any lubricant used in the compressor is vegetable oil based, but it should be filtered. The air is cheap, but the inspections on the tank are expensive. In theory, they shouldn't even fill the tank if you are not an approved diver, but that shouldn't be an issue. The store will insist on the inspections, even if you aren't going to dive with the tank.

Reply to
miso

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