My mother's apartment has a 1985 Kenmore 1 ton in-wall AC unit which still cools, but has a fan motor that seems reluctant to start up sometimes. It could also probably use a good cleaning and other preventive maintenance. Replacing this beast at the present moment is unfortunately not an option.
Do HVAC techs work on units this old? Are parts still available?
If the capacitor has three terminals, it could be bad. Well even if it has two caps and whatever, whatever.
Change the cap first, it is the cheapest thing. After that, then maybe the motor. Actually, the fan cap section is alot lower value and shoud fail fir st, but that is not alwayds the case despite electrical theory.
These are NOT start capacitors, they are consideered run capacitors. Usuall y thwere is one for the fan maybe 3 uF and one for the compressor about 15 uF. that is here in the states on a 110 line. the caps are rated for 350 or so, in the UK they will be rated at least 450. Prone to failure as such.
In the US, the caps for the compressor and fan are usually one device with three terminals, one os common and the others go to the terminals on the mo tors. These are in circuit ALL THE TIME, so you co not want strt caps which only work at startup. You specify "Run Capacitor" for this.
Thanks for the reply. I think I'm capable of checking the cap myself before I call service, so I'll go down that avenue first. If that doesn't solve things then I'll see about calling a tech - I have chronic pain issues and don't really want to get into servicing or replacing the fan motor.
I bought a Whynter dual hose portable AC unit for her to use in case the old unit fails. I was skeptical at first, but it really works well. Cools the whole apartment (about 600 square feet) down on a 90 degree day no problem.
The 1985 Kenmore is really a beast, made in the US of A and built like a tank. Many apartments in her complex are still using the same type unit with no problems, I bet it could last another 20 years with a bit of care. Once the Freon leaks out, though, the game's over.
I doubt the Whynter unit will still be running in 2044.
the motor. Actually, the fan cap section is alot lower value and shoud fail first, but that is not alwayds the case despite electrical theory.
ually thwere is one for the fan maybe 3 uF and one for the compressor about 15 uF. that is here in the states on a 110 line. the caps are rated for 35
0 or so, in the UK they will be rated at least 450. Prone to failure as suc h.
ith three terminals, one os common and the others go to the terminals on th e motors. These are in circuit ALL THE TIME, so you co not want strt caps w hich only work at startup. You specify "Run Capacitor" for this.
Can't the freon be re-charged? Surprised if it can't. When I read your post, immediately I thought "gummed up bearings." But the caps seem likely too. I wonder if you can put some wd40 on the bearings? Yes, the unit can operate until 2050. Try changing the caps - it should be easy. If you can manually drip wd40 on the bearings, that's easy too. Even if they are sealed, sometimes it penetrates, I've found. On a practical note, does the apartment building have a maintenance man? Sometimes they have spare parts. jb
Generally, it leaks out in cars because of the fittings, and moreso because of the shaft seal on the copressor. All units in the house or whatever are hermetically sealed and rarely leak. The only thing that stops a home type system is either the valves in the ocmpressor or the cap tube/expansion va lve. If the piston(s) move and those parts are working, the system works. A ll ityt is diong is boiling freon without a heat source.
Some will, some won't. Some parts will be available, some won't. Fan motors don't need much starting torque, so fans tend to be susceptible to mechanical problems. As mentioned elsewhere, yours may just need a good cleaning.
I'd check Angie's List for good prospects, then call around. If your list includes companies that advertise working on old iron, or that have good reviews starting with "we have an ancient...", then call them first.
The very first thing I'd do at each place is mention the age of the unit and ask if they're willing to work on it.
--
Tim Wescott
Control system and signal processing consulting
www.wescottdesign.com
WD40 is a very light oil, AFAIK. I use it for machining aluminum, but it penetrates pretty well. I have used a mixture of it with oil on bearings with good results. Frankly, my attitude is what can I do in 10 minutes? I picked up that attitude from the OP, that he was looking for a quick fix.
I have an old dehumidifer whose control circuit was fried (old). So I have a picaxe plus SCR brick running the darn thing. If I had to put money on what's wrong with the AC, I'd guess it is the caps.
My mother's apartment has a 1985 Kenmore 1 ton in-wall AC unit which still cools, but has a fan motor that seems reluctant to start up sometimes. It could also probably use a good cleaning and other preventive maintenance. Replacing this beast at the present moment is unfortunately not an option.
Do HVAC techs work on units this old? Are parts still available?
I don't think it is recommended as lubricant for ANYTHING. The original use was for drying out magnetos and such. The name itself is derived from Water Displacer and was the fortieth attempt at formulating it that worked. Howard Hughes had something to do with it...for aircraft use.
I quit buying WD40 when the huge economy sizes I used to buy clogged up half way through the can, making the contents inaccessible. What a scam. There are far better things to use for penetrating/lubricating oil than this stuff.
One thing WD40 may be actually good for is removing those pesky glued on store tags which are meant to survive Armageddon..
mike
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