I'll probably post this on one of the repair groups at some point, but I'll try here first as it's an electrical issue and I know you folks better. I think I actually mentioned this last summer but I can't now remember what the upshot was.
My mother has a 1985 Kenmore in-wall AC unit that works well when it works, but is having startup problems. Here's a video showing the symptoms:
formatting link
Motor start capacitor issue? Hopefully there's a cheap and lazy way to get it up and running as I'm cheap and lazy
Time to get a screw driver and take it apart. At least in 1985 they won't have all the silly security screws. (ie Torx with a pin in the center.. coffee maker repair this weekend gotta have coffee in the AM.)
It's 30 years old! Buy her a new one. This is your *mother*.
--
John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
picosecond timing laser drivers and controllers
jlarkin att highlandtechnology dott com
http://www.highlandtechnology.com
It still works great, when it works! My *mother* is the type of woman who would slap me for paying 700 bucks for the installation of a new AC unit if the old one could be fixed.
Could be. Is there any pattern to the start failures (e.g. when the unit is hot/cold, just been used...)? I had one that wouldn't start (blew the breaker) when it started hot. The freon was low (the core froze up, too). I eventually replaced the unit, which is the right answer for a 30YO AC.
A new unit is more efficient, and cost less to run. I spent a couple hundred for a new unit when the fan failed in my 10 year old A/C. A new fan was $250. The new unit is cheaper to run, and paid for itself in one season.
AC Capacitors are cheap on Ebay, and there are 'Hard start kits' there, as well.
If you want reliable equipment, the older it is the longer its lasted thus the better its odds long term. Of course its more complex than that, but st ill replacing with new only results in need to replace more often. With 193
0s appliances, lasting a lifetime is actually a realistic option. If you ca n live with the design anyway.
Whatever. This new unit has a variable speed fan and remote control. The compressor is soft start, so it is a lot quieter than the older designs. Just because the electric is included in the rent doesn't prevent an increase in the rent when utility costs go up. If she is renting, why doesn't the owner pay for the repair or replacement?
It is branded GE, and it came from Sam's club. It is 8,000 BTU, and keeps most of my house cool, in Central Florida. My bedroom is usually around 77F, and the furthest point in the house is about 85F. My summertime electric bill was $80 a month lower than the year before. :)
I don't have the model number handy, but I can dig out the paperwork, if needed.
Thanks Mike, that's close enough to play with ideas.
The notion was: the more sun, the more cooling, with thermal mass storage I already have. A small unit could run continuously as an auxiliary heat pumper--it need not be the whole solution, no batteries needed.
Seems a slick way to harness a panel or two for fun and chop my measly peak loading (such as it is).
Check the outlet, plug, and cord for hot spots while the thing is starting up. After 30 years, the spring tension in the outlet isn't what it once was, and the wires in the cord may have broken internally from being kicked/moved, etc. If you're feeling fancy and scientific, measure the line voltage inside the unit while it's trying to start.
If it has a start capacitor, see if the end with the terminals is all puffed out. If so, replace. Sears may still have the exact part, or your local HVAC supply will have a generic... take the dead one with you when shopping.
If it doesn't have a start capacitor, there may be a current relay or thermistor to run the start winding on the compressor. If that relay/ thermistor has quit, it will have trouble starting.
You can check the resistance of the compressor windings; it will be low but not zero. None of the windings should show continuity to the metal case of the compressor - if they do, recover the freon, cash in the copper and aluminum at the junk yard, and buy a new A/C.
If everything else seems to be OK, jump around the thermostat with a piece of wire and see if that improves the situation - maybe the thermostat contacts are either arcing or have high resistance. Again, Sears may have the exact part, or the HVAC supply has a generic.
Sometimes there is a simple wiring diagram and even some troubleshooting tips, either pasted inside the unit, or folded up on a piece of paper behind the front grille.
Clean the condenser (hot side) and evaporator (cold side). Vacuum cleaner for loose dust, then something like Windex or 409 into the fins for greasy stuff. (This is more of a "starts OK but doesn't do much good" thing, but it can't hurt.)
The compressor starts up just fine and sounds normal, it is the blower that 's not working. You do understand the blower is a separate entity from the compressor? The compressor will not re-start when the fool short cycles it, he needs to allow at least 5 minutes and possibly up to 10 for sealed syst em pressure equalization to re-start.
ElectronDepot website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.