Need simple design for remote control of outdoor lighting system

Look at X-10 hardware. It couldn't be more simple. I use it for a variety of remote controls of lighting.

Don

Don is talking about the scumbuckets who gave us the Internet pop-up ad.

I suggest that you give your money to someone with less sleezy business model.

"Yvan"

** That will be *some* relay.

Rated for 50 amps continuous with a 500 amp surge capacity for switching on cold lamps.

** One that switches the AC supply, for a start.

Look for a "latching relay" which will change positions on the appliciation of a pulse.

........ Phil

Hi, Yvan. Newbie questions are also generally well-received at sci.electronics.basics.

The device you're looking for is called an impulse relay. When the coil is energized, it initially does nothing, but when the coil is de-energized, the relay contacts switch state. If it was closed, pulsing the coil will open the contacts, and if it was open, pulsing the coil will close them.

They're a little tricky to home brew for a newbie, so it might be best just to buy one. I'm assuming you want to use 120VAC to control things here. You might want to start with the Tyco/Potter&Brumfield S89 Series. Their part number is S89R11ABD1-120, and is sold by Digi-Key as their P/N PB586-ND. It has a 120VAC coil, .250" faston connects, and can switch up to 15 amps.

Now lighting loads have high inrush current, and the initial surge of current as the lights are turned on will definitely be in excess of

15A, and possibly several times that. For longer service, I'd recommend you use the impulse relay contacts to drive a small definite purpose lighting contactor rated for this load, which should be easily available at any electrical supply house.

I hope this has been helpful. Good luck with your project.

Cheers Chris

--
Assuming that your power supply is simply a transformer, with a 12V
secondary supplying 600 watts to the lamp load means that if you
want to switch the secondary you\'ll need to use something that can
handle 50 amperes steady-state and can hot-switch 10 times that
current until the lamps heat up.  Anything you find is going to be
pricey, _plus_ you\'ll still have to implement the alternate-action
thing.

A much simpler plan would be to switch the primary, where the switch
would only have to carry 5 amps at 120V, using something like:

http://www.kussmaul.com/091-98-12.html

If you buy a Stanley RF remote you get a little box that you can plug the transformer into, and a keyfob controller. Cheap aind it works. I use mine to manually cycle power to networking equipment.

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--
"it\'s the network..."                          "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog  Info for designers:  http://www.speff.com

It will be simplest to mod the remote control receiver. Scan and post a schematic to abse.

Or, if you don't have a Stanley store in your neighborhood, ;-)

In case that's wrapped, here's a tiny url:

Cheers! Rich

I like your style. Despite http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:zwopVK10YkUJ:tinyurl.com/preview.php+requires-cookies-*-*-*+want-to-see-where-*-going+before-going-to-the-site It's nice to see the original link--with TinyURL as only a backup.

http://66.102.7.104/search?q=cache:zwopVK10YkUJ:tinyurl.com/preview.php+requires-cookies-*-*-*+want-to-see-where-*-going+before-going-to-the-site

Well, I like to be as inclusive as I can, so to speak. :-)

Got Options? ;-D

Cheers! Rich

Hey, this is a very nice group!

Thank you very much all!

Best regards, and have a very nice summer. Yvan.

Hi group,

Thank you all for your answers and for your time.

I is clear now that I should switch the primary @ 120 Volts. Much more simpler.

But I still have one question. I already read that closing the primary may create peaks of potential on the secondary. I do not want to change bulbs all the time.

I understand that the lighting system is mainly resistive right ? Do you foresee problems if I open/close the primary (that is, the 120 Volt input) ?

Thanks Yvan.

Low voltage lighting is normally switched on/off on the primary side of the transformer. The fact that you do it with a remote switch doesn't change things.

You can use an X-10 / Smarthome remote appliance module to swith the transformer on/off on the primary side.

Ed