Don't need much. I don't know why but I guess the power company here does n ot have their shit together. We get these mini glitches sometimes, less tha n a second. Had one today and all looks alright except it appears to have f ucked up the OS on one of my boxes.
If I had five seconds that would be fine. I don't need 20 minutes and I don 't need it on the monitor and the audio system, just the box. Just keep the damn thing running. That's all.
Any ideas ? I'll build it, I don't care, I am not putting up with this.
not have their shit together. We get these mini glitches sometimes, less t han a second. Had one today and all looks alright except it appears to have f***ed up the OS on one of my boxes.
on't need it on the monitor and the audio system, just the box. Just keep t he damn thing running. That's all.
I got a sale circular by email from someone just the other day containing U PS as low as $40 I believe. What's wrong with that? Why on earth would yo u want to build your own?
Seems the sale is over and it's up to $45 now.
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Rick C.
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Been there, done that, in several ways. The easiest was to switch from a desktop computah to a laptop, which has its own built in UPS. The power can disappear for as long as the laptop battery will provide power.
However, laptops are not practical in all situations. So, I decided a few milliseconds of storage would be sufficient to get rid of most of the glitches. I installed the biggest capacitors I could find on the
+5v and +12v lines of the (ATX) power supply. Two big caps and a 5 pin Molex power connector to an unused power supply connector. Also, you'll need to increase the size of the capacitor on the +5VSB line (used for Wake on LAN), and in the "Power Good" circuit.
However, I wanted something that lasted longer. Looking at the schematic of a typical (ATX) power supply: I suspected that if I could keep the high voltage DC across the input voltage doubler on long enough, the rest of the power supply would not notice that the input AC had disappeared. So, I increased the filter caps (C5 and C6 470uf 250V? in the above schematic) to something huge. I vaguely recall using two 10,000uF at 250V electrolytics similar to this one: Of course, you'll never get two of these to fit inside the power supply, so I mounted them inside the computah case and ran wires to inside the power supply. I was very careful to make sure that the terminals and the aluminum can were well protected from contact with the case or humans since they were at AC power line potential.
I don't recall how long the caps would keep the PS alive. As I vaguely recall, the original 470uf caps were good for about 250 msec in the unmodified power supply. The larger caps should be proportionally better at: 10,000 / 470 * 250 msec = 5 seconds The only testing I had time to do was pull the plug, wait one second, plug it back in, and see what happened. Todays desktops burn much less power, so you might be able to get more time.
I'm not sure what a power factor correction circuit will do to this scheme. This was before they became common. Also, I thought I might need an inrush current limiter to keep the BFC (big fat cap) from blowing the power line fuse, but that proved not to be necessary.
Remember, you have but one life to give to your hobby, so please be careful when working with AC power and stored energy.
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
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UPS as low as $40 I believe. What's wrong with >that? Why on earth would you want to build your own?
Thanks for the info. There are issues Re: Why on Earth. These glitches, let me try to get this right, ...
It went out for 15-20mS, then about 40-60mS later did the same thing, same duration. My basement PC went down but rebooted fine. Now, it may be possib le that I should use a better power supply. I never changed it, it just las ts because I never turn it off. Could having three hard drives pull it down so fast or is it getting weak and I should just get one ?
Oh and I just remembered the printer was in one of its modes, cleaning or w hatever. I didn't restart.
Oh, and now that I think of it the fact that the diningroom PC is FUBARed i n the OS indicates there is no big fault in THIS PC.
Actually I could sit this Win 7 laptop kinda behind the TV, put the wireless keyboard/mouse USB receiver out front, but for now I am just going to fire it up in the diningroom.
I wanted it for the garage if it has a good soundcard, it might have a good enough antenna. My other laptops do but if you turn them certain ways you lose it. Plus the other ones have shit soundcards.
I dunno, I got enough CD/DD players laying around I can take one out there and just burn disks.
Still I don't want to have this shit happen to my PCs. Different locations, I would have to wire this to them new. Not the easiest thing in this house but I can do it.
We get lots of power drop outs here (very rural SW Scotland), full cuts when the trees get the power lines and glitches when cows rub themselves on the power pole stays and the wires wiggle about and hit things. I have anything important (except the CNC mill !) on one of several 1kVA UPS boxes each with 2 x 12V 7Ah batteries. The biggest problem is that the batteries don't last long - typically about 2 years and it doesn't seem to matter if I use cheapo ones or Yuasa.
I wouldn't trust one with a tiny battery.
MK
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I guess this dope never heard of a docking station.
Can't tell who though because you do not know how to quote worth a shit.
The wireless transceiver should not have to be anywhere but in the room. Must be some cheap chinese off brand you buy that you need it there. I have a dining table against the wall with one chair back there as well. In that chair seat sits a laptop (out of sight), and on the table sits a nice 28" 4K hi res display, and wireless keyboard and mouse. Twelve year old i3 laptop and it still can pump the display, and the USB connection dongle is in the edge of it, not up on the table.
Go to a local thrift store. Likely find an old laptop there for a few bucks that pumps better than yours.
Micro storage chips are cheap and hold a LOT more data and it stays for a very long time. "Burned" discs can lose data over time, and especially if stored in a hot location.
I have an old stereo receiver that I can pump with any laptop and flood the garage with far better sound than the laptop port pumps alone.
es not have their shit together. We get these mini glitches sometimes, less than a second. Had one today and all looks alright except it appears to ha ve f***ed up the OS on one of my boxes.
don't need it on the monitor and the audio system, just the box. Just keep the damn thing running. That's all.
.
I lose power for the same reasons, without the cows. But a little UPS really saves the day.
I took a chance on a flea market unit in the box because the box said they equalized and floated the lead-acid battery properly.
Apparently it was true -- the first two 12V 7AH batteries lasted eight or ten years each. For the current, third battery, I cabled in a (grossly over-sized) lawn tractor battery, which was in stock and cost 1/3rd less than replacing the original 7AH unit.
Most of the UPS' fry their batteries by continuously overcharging. Properly "equalizing" then floating extends lead-acid service life several-fold.
My UPS is so old I doubt you could find one, but perhaps the info will help guide your search.
PowerRite Plus, by Deltec, "A Fiskars Co.", Model PRB420.
es not have their shit together. We get these mini glitches sometimes, less than a second. Had one today and all looks alright except it appears to ha ve f***ed up the OS on one of my boxes.
don't need it on the monitor and the audio system, just the box. Just keep the damn thing running. That's all.
.
UPS charging circuits can be antisocial to the batteries.
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