amdx wrote in news:qlmidt$2ae$ snipped-for-privacy@dont-email.me:
It should not be. At least not electrically. The mechanical logistics of depressing it to the click over point and then releasing it back up to at least the reset point is likely where the bottleneck is. You'd be better off with a reed switch. Then you would not experience a problem until you reached the mechanical resonance point of the reeds. Your mechanism for the actuation needs to have low unsprung weight too to attain the rates you want.
One would think that micro and cherry would have rep rate data.
Veeder-Root counter, 12V 8 Watts. I tried to post a Dropbox picture, lately the link in my Dropbox window does not highlight to copy. I had this problem then it started working, now having it again, anyone else having Dropbox problems?
Microswitch on a drill press? OK, I confess, I've never done that.
But a small microswitch should work at 80 ms on/off time. Do you think it won't?
I don't like reeds, at least reed relays with coils. They are expensive and unreliable. Their rated speeds are illusions, because they bounce and twang for ages.
Optical doesn't require much of a counter. Obviously you have a current li mited voltage source to work with the switch. That should also work with a photo diode as long as the current and voltage don't exceed ratings. The hall sensor can be bought as a unit ready to go but it is a three wire devi ce needing power.
Do you know what the current through the switch is when closed? What is th e open circuit voltage?
If you have 5 volt power available you can get photodiode or hall modules i n a couple of days.
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Rick C.
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Sanity check. If you used a long-life mechanical microswitch, good for a minimum of 50,000 cycles, at 330 revs per minute and one count per revolution, your switch will be dead after: 50*10^3 / 330rpm = 151 minutes = 2.5hrs If you believe the 1 million operations specification (I don't), it might last up to: 1*10^6 / 330rmp = 3,000 minutes = 51 hrs Be sure to have a box of replacement switches handy.
By coincidence, I recently bribed my auto mechanic with a tiny magnet hall effect sensor tachometer for his lathe: It won't count revolutions, but will measure RPM, which is what I suspect you really want. I've used these on a drill press in the past and found that contact cementing the tiny magnet to the spindle pulley and installing the sensor between the pulleys works well.
The biggest problem was finding 12VDC near the drill press. I used a common "wall wart" power supply because the owner didn't want me to splice into the 117VAC power. Finding a good box was also problem.
You can also get photoelectric tachometer kits, similar to the hall effect sensors. Gluing a reflecting piece of tape to the spindle pulley or the belt should work.
Example: More:
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
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Thanks. So now you disclose what you're trying to accomplish. I assumed you wanted a tachometer for the drill press. So, use a hall effect or photoelectric proximity sensor:
I'm not sure what you have from Veeder Root. If it's marginal, look for an industrial counter or "totalizer":
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
I don't think he wants to wrap half the circumference of a drill press chuck with magnets in order to get a 50% duty cycle. A rough estimate:
The drill chuck will be spinning at 330 rpm. The chuck has a diameter of about 2 inches. The magnet might be about 1/4" long.
Circumference of chuck = 1 revolution = Pi*d = 3.14 * 2 = 6.28 inches Surface speed = 330 rev/minute = 5.5 rev/sec = 6.28 in/rev * 5.5 rev/sec = 34.5 in/sec A 1/4" long magnet, moving a 34.5 in/sec will product a pulse of: 0.25 in / 35.5 in/sec = 0.007 sec = 7 milliseconds The "operating time" of a reed relay can be "a few milliseconds" according to:
although it is more often around a few milliseconds dependent upon the actual reed relay.
In my never humble opinion, a 7 msec pulse will be rather marginal unless either a very small reed relay, or much larger magnet is used. There's also the minimum pulse with to trigger the Veeder Root counter, which will be a factor. Of course, with a 50% duty cycle, the pulse width will be half a revolution or: 1 / 5.5 rev/sec = 180 msec which should be more than enough time to produce a count. While that would be great for a coil winder running at 330 rpm, I suspect that most counters will have problems at the low frequency end. Looking at the specs on my cheap eBay counter, it only goes down to 10 Hz = 0.1 count/sec = 6 rpm If the drill press is going to be stopped and started during the coil winding, I would expect some counts to be lost as is slows down and speeds up. This is one reason why many coil winders still use gear driven mechanical turn counters that can be spun up, down, reversed, and stopped, without losing the count.
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Hi Jeff, This should be simple although the mounting mechanics were a little chore. I still haven't found my reed switches, but I expect that will work. The is my counter.
I'm wondering if you need this bit of kit at all. If you know it does 330rpm, you know how long to run it for each desired winding. For just 5 or 10 turns you can turn it by hand. ... unless you really do need 1 turn accuracy.
You might even find that a carbon brush & some thin insulation might suffice.
Personally, I would not immediately elect to use a reed switch for this app lication. There are many better ways to do it, especially if you are comfo rtable programming up 8-bit micros, or even the new Arduino hobby-grade stu ff. I would look at Hall Effect sensors, or something in optoelectronics. You could get rotational speed, a count, and even direction.
You would think a electro-mechanical counter would work fine with a switch closure. Any chance the switch is not only bouncing from the contacts, but the mechanical arm is bouncing as well? What is the connection like?
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Rick C.
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