flexible ribbon "PCB" to regular PCB

Use "rigid-flex" board? ...basically flex FR4 laminated with rigid FR4.

I understand that a hot bar is used to solder flex pcb to rigid pcb.

if you're going to epoxy the joint the weakest part will be where the flex comes out of the epoxy,

So, open ended boxes, rebated to stack securely, or just stacked; but softwood. Drill a 1/4" hole and put a flex with 3.5mm plug through it. bees won't mind a 1/4" hole, if it bothers them they'll plug it with propolis.

The bees are going to glue that to both boxes with propolis, the next time the hive is opened it'll snap depening on which side of the popolis snaps first.

How many bee keepers are there on your team?

Have you tried the Broodminder Temp+Hum sensors, that you can locate in the center of the hive? They have a 1x1-inch bluetooth PCB in one end of folded clear plastic, and a strip of the plastic sneaks out of the hive between supers. The bees leave the plastic assembly alone, no propolis.

But we have trouble getting their data into our hive-monitor system, prefer a wired connection, plus I'm placing eight sensor parameters (!) at the middle-of-the hive location. But we'd like to keep convenient place-it-between supers, move it up as the hive grows and gets more supers, etc.

A six-inch piece of thin flex should work fine, using the strain-relef solutions suggested here.

Hah, sadly a bit under populated at the moment, but hey, bee hives are best left alone, right? Some experience beekeepers have offered to help. Then there's me for elec and PCB design, plus an excellent math programmer, plus a 3rd-year EE summer student to help with cables, sensors. An informatics post-doc for database software. Plus an Institute technician one day a week. And the project's PI, who's doing 3D printed housings, etc. OK, that's a pretty good team!

so long as the bees really leave it alone, and the bee- keeper manages to miss it when unsticking a stuck super it now sounds like a good solution.

For strain releif zig-zagging through a PCB works well with rubber or PVC insulated wires, but yeah for something hard and smooth some glue will help

lar

ink,

c., to

I2C

There's the heat sealed connections (conductive heat sensitive adhesive) us ed in high volume. Or you could consider rigid-flex and then the board woul d come with the flex incorporated. But I don't think either one is all that suitable for small quantity unless cost is not a concern.

I think your connector + epoxy is probably best but I would keep the epoxy away from the connector lest it affect the reliability.

--Spehro Pefhany

This stuff is interesting- kind of a heat-sealed version of the zebra elast omeric connectors (anisotropic conductivity so you just have to line the pa ds up on either side) but again, probably unsuitable for small quantities:

Yes, very interesting. Can you suggest other heat-sensitive adhesives (doesn't need to be conductive if I use a socket).

Win - for thinness, you might look at Parlax's "flat cable". Digikey's catalog shows one with a thickness of .011 inch and a current rating of

Hul

W> >