DC DC Converter 100V to 10V

can anyone suggest a smps topology or an off the shelf component that could convert 100V DC (@ .2A) to 10V DC out?

much thanks

Reply to
panfilero
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Try searching on "off line regulator". I found one (MC33363) in about 30 seconds looking on the On Semi web site.

I dunno if it's any _good_. But I found it.

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Reply to
Tim Wescott

This worked great:

ftp://jjlarkin.lmi.net/ESM_power.pdf

and would scale to 100 volts easily. The major difficulty with rolling your own would be the magnetics.

John

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Reply to
John Larkin

In the UK, the mains is nominally 230V - inspection of the spec label on many power units will reveal that they can operate from something like; 85 -

265, so they are for all intents and purposes "universal".

You should bear in mind though, that the 85VRMS as the lower limit is about

120V by the time it emerges from the rectifier/reservoir - but who knows, you might find a PSU that gets away with it.

10V is a bit odball, if you can't find that voltage double up a couple of 5V USB wall-warts.

Reply to
Ian Field

This just in from TI:

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Reply to
hamilton

If you don't need isolation, I think National has some high-voltage SimpleSwitchers, too.

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Reply to
John Larkin

Look for an 115V AC/DC converter with +/-5V outputs.

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Reply to
Nico Coesel

If a current regulated output of 50 mA is OK, there is a three-terminal=20 device

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which uses only =

about 6 external components, and cost is less than a dollar. Also look = at:

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Supertex has other high voltage modules that may work for your = application.

An ordinary switching supply might be able to run on 100VDC. If outputs = are=20 isolated, two 5VDC supplies could be connected in series for 10V.

Paul=20

Reply to
P E Schoen

I'd just buy a 9V or 12V wall wart and change the sense resistor to get 10V. There exist adjustable laptop power supplies that can do 10V without having to open 'em up.

These works well:

Has plug-in sense resistors

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This one has a switch

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But they're available under many brand names. mike

Reply to
mike

It's an interesting set of assumptions that I'm seeing in the replies to this.

Are you doing a onesie hobbyist hack-together, or are you designing a product? For a onesie hobbyist hack-together, the suggestions about wall- warts (the newer slim-line ones) may be the way to go.

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Reply to
Tim Wescott

ll-

ttdesign.com

it's a project, a one off type deal but it's gotta be a clean design, there will be no AC involved I only have access to the 100V DC

Reply to
panfilero

ll-

ttdesign.com

I'm currently looking at this chip

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seems promising

Reply to
panfilero

It looks to be about the same thing as what I found. The reason I was suggesting a little wall-wart is because that the circuit you see on that web page is -- most likely -- exactly what you'll find inside the wall- wart, and that should work just fine with a DC input. So you can either get the circuit for your one-off by digging through your stash of wall- warts (or Goodwill's), or you can spend much $$ and time designing it yourself.

If you want to disguise the "Wall-wartiness" of it, saw the case off of a wall-wart and just use the innards. Or at least the nifty transformer.

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Reply to
Tim Wescott

t
r

ttdesign.com

But since I need this for DC/DC converting, if I try to use a wall wart, wont I have to add an inverter to my circuit ?

Reply to
panfilero

Look at that transformerless bridge rectifier in the circuit on the page you referenced, and ask yourself "what would happen if I applied a DC voltage to that?".

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Reply to
Tim Wescott

But since I need this for DC/DC converting, if I try to use a wall wart, wont I have to add an inverter to my circuit ?

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Everything after the rectifier/reservoir is DC-DC converter - which is what you want.

There are a couple of potential gotcha's though.

Firstly if the wall-wart spec says 85 - 260VRMS, the DC-DC converter will be expecting at least 120VDC (multiply 85 by 1.414).

Secondly older switchers originally designed for 230VRMS had a voltage doubling arrangement for 110VRMS operation, either a voltage sensing chip + triac or a manually applied link shorts one AC arm of the bridge to the middle connection of a series connected pair of reservoir electrolytics - the voltage doubler won't double DC.

Reply to
Ian Field

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