Cutting panels

Hi,

I need to fabricate a "patch panel" for a network distribution point. Most COTS panels are fabricated in multiples of 12 or 24.

E.g., 1x12, 1x24 (as 12+12), 4x24, etc.

Graphically, something like:

1x12 XXXXXXXXXXXX

1x24 XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX

4x24 XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX

Each 'X' being an 8P8C RJ45S connector.

Typically, these "connector assemblies" are fastened to the rear of an aluminum plate while the connectors themselves protrude through holes in that plate (actually, since the connectors typically abut each other, the holes are really long *slots*)

[Sorry if all this is obvious -- if you've seen one such panel, you'd understand what I mean]

In my particular case (1-off), I need to fabricate two "3x12" panels:

XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX XXXXXXXXXXXX

My problem is cutting these long slots in some material (e.g., aluminum) in a manner that doesn't look amateurish. [I suspect these slots are punched in commercial offerings so they are nice and square, etc.]

You *know* aluminum with a file is going to look like "aluminum with a file" :< I just can't imagine keeping nice hard, straight edges going that route!

So, I'm exploring other fabrication options. E.g., perhaps replace the aluminum with lexan? (though I'm not sure that will be any easier to machine -- "hot knife"?)

[I have a friend with several wire EDM's but can't bring myself to ask for that big of a favor! :-/ ]

Currently, I figure the easiest solution is to find a couple of

4x24 panels and cut them each in "half" (more like 55/45%] discarding the undersized "halves".

Is there some other trick I can explore? Anything *strong* that can be "molded"/poured? (the panels have to support a fair bit of force as things are plugged/unplugged "carelessly")

Thanks!

--don

Reply to
Don Y
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Find a place that does laser cutting? think there's even some on ebay

if it is mostly slots could you bolt/pop-rivet it together from standard strips of alu?

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

. . .

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If you have a technical sheet metal shop in your area (not the roofing 
kind) that may be the way to go.
Reply to
John Fields

Search for "custom panel laser cut metal"

--
Roberto Waltman 

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Reply to
Roberto Waltman

I'm don't know what type of connector will go in the slot, but many have a small lip to cover minor flaws. I if indeed the job is 3 long slots and not 36 small slots, I would fabricate it myself with a jigsaw and a file. I usually scribe lines in the aluminum and put a fresh coat of masking tape on the bottom of my jigsaw to protect the material, then grab the proper glasses, and lighting for good vision. I'd mount the aluminum securely maybe in a vise, maybe screwed to a piece of wood. You might want to change the masking tape part way through. Use a variable speed jigsaw and a new blade (I like the bimetal) and take your time and take breaks. If your not up to that, make a drawing and take it to a machine shop.

I bought one of these panels for a system using RJ45s

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I bought it for the parts when I put together a temperature monitoring system for 13 freezers. (A "One Wire" system) Mikek

Reply to
amdx

Not sure why you'd see filed edges in this case. If you mean the outsides of a cut panel I do this:

a. File with a coarse file, then a fine one.

b. Go over it with an electric sander and 240-grit paper or similar.

c. Go over it by hand with 600-grit paper.

d. If I want to be extra good I go over it once more with 600-grit and chalk in it. Commercial product does not live up to that.

A pint of Guinness can help with that :-)

IME they all have a lip. Else they'd fall out the back :-)

That's exactly how I do it. I use a Bosch 230V jig saw running a bit slow on 120V, makes nice clean cuts. You just have to resist the temptation of rushing the job by pushing too hard.

I clamp it to a wooden workbench. Also with some masking tape so the clamps won't mar the aluminum.

--
Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

For just one, find someone with a manual mill and have the slots milled. Maybe post on rec.crafts.metalworking and tell where you are and maybe someone will volunteer. Or find a machine shop in your area. Laser cutting, punching, or cnc milling will all cost twice as much because of the set up and programming involved. If you want five or ten or more, then that gets spread out and doesn't matter much, but for one the overhead is a killer.

----- Regards, Carl Ijames

John Fields wrote:

Search for "custom panel laser cut metal"

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Roberto Waltman 

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Reply to
Carl Ijames

Or use the situation as the perfect excuse to get one of these:

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It's still less than what most wives spend on shoes, handbags and such in a year :-)

--
Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

the

hat

Good solution. You could either layout one panel and the person doing the work can stack the plates and mill both of them at the same time. Or you c ould provide a drawing and let the person doing the work find the material. That way the shipping would be less. How thick is the material? I might have some appropriate material.

Doing it with a sabre saw and a file could still end up looking professiona l.You just need the right file. MSC has files for aluminum that work well .

Dan

Reply to
dcaster

I'd think he wasn't so much talking about the finish on the edges but more that making a long accurate and perfectly straight slot with a file and a saw take a bit of practice

with the right bit a normal router works fine on aluminium, hack up a template from a few pieces of wood and use a copy ring

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

Actually, while hunting for some images to post, I've encountered panels that use groups of 4, 6 and 8 as well! So, I guess there's no hard and fast rule, here (except that the slots will be long and narrow -- and many of them!)

I think that will be expensive. I'd like to come up with a solution that others could replicate -- on a hobbyist/DIYer budget (since I don't think most folks would be deploying this sort of thing in an equipment rack (for this application). Nor would they tend to need as many ports/connectors as are typically available COTS.

Icky-poo! I don't see how you can end up with something that didn't look "pieced together"/amateurish.

--don

Reply to
Don Y

(slaps head) D'oh! Friend with EDM's probably still has a few Bridgeports in the back room for jobs that are too small to setup on the wire cutters! I.e., no real "set-up" involved using a mill (compared to "programming" the EDM's). This is a much *smaller* favor to ask... ;-)

Exactly. Old school is the only practical way to go if you are going to have someone else do it for you.

Thanks! That gives me a more practical approach (though still leaves "those who follow" in a bind...)

--don

Reply to
Don Y

Not sure why though. I even did those as a kid, using a simple tiny metal saw because a motorized jig saw was outside my budget back then. But when I bought the hand saw I made sure that the blade could be inserted 90 degrees rotated. Those are very simple and cheap tools:

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In those days I always wanted one of these because it's much easier to flip the blade, but couldn't find it locally:

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When I built electronics I usually built the enclosure first, the result had to look good and preferably free of blemishes and imperfections.

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Most had cut-outs or sides that needed to be polished. The last one has lots of scratches but those are from various ham events were it got a beating.

[...]

For a one-off piece I'd plunge right in with it :-)

Unfortunately I don't have a router and I am really out of space for more such tools. I do enjoy making stuff by hand on occasion, when there is time. Otherwise, in America you can rent just about anything.

--
Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

You can also use an off-the-shelf panel an then make a cover plate for the unused positions. Paint that the same color as the panel and it'll look professionally. It even tells people "Hey, this is expandable" :-)

Anyhow, if you don't rush the job you can probably make such a panel in your garage.

[...]
--
Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

Most of the units I've seen (I've accumulated quite a nice collection! :> ) have the connectors *peek* through the slots in the front metal plate, mounted from behind.

For example: Note the "black dots" -- each a boss/stand-off that's supporting the PCB onto which the individual connectors are mounted.

Or: which has some alternate thumbnails showing detail of the openings in the panel -- along with a view of the back side.

E.g., a PCB (or, a set of PCB's) is mounted behind the panel. On one side of the PCB, the connectors are mounted. On the reverse side, a series of punch-down blocks (the third thumbnail) which are connected to the connectors via traces on the PCB's.

Viewed "end-on" sighting down the row of connectors, you have:

CCCC ========== B B

where CCCC represents the connector's body and B the punchdown blocks.

But, the epiphany is hidden in your phrase: "a small lip to cover minor flaws"! I.e., while the connectors themselves don't have such a lip, there's nothing to prevent me from *making* one!

Specifically, creating a "precise" veneer to mask any ugliness in the fabrication of the "metal/lexan panel". I.e., use the panel for structural support and adhere a thin (rigid) plastic veneer *to* it!

You could precisely cut the slots in that veneer with a good straight edge and sharp xacto knife. Heck, you could even make it out of an exotic *wood* veneer: "Be the first on your block to have a Mahogany patch panel!" :>

With the veneer approach, you could be *really* crude in how well you cut the slots. And, "filing" would only be necessary to remove burrs, etc.

Yes, I like this idea! It's something that others could easily reproduce and get "good" results -- all while avoiding the need to locate some "service" to do the work for you!

Reply to
Don Y

sure it is doable with practice and attention to detail, look like the ones you show all have mountings the goes on the outside of the panel with something that gets mounted from the back so you can see the cut out it need to be that much more accurate

a router takes less space than a pair of shoes :P

lots of hacker spaces and places online where you can get laser cut acrylic, that might work

-Lasse

Reply to
Lasse Langwadt Christensen

Oh, yes! A rigid (thin) sheet of plastic onto which is adhered a nice, *legended* applique (photographically reproduced from a Photoshop/Illustrator file created on your PC for $2 at your local Costco, etc.). Make things look *really* professional/custom! Much cleaner than scribbling what each connector services *on* the panel itself!

And, for little/no money! Finestkind!

Reply to
Don Y

Hi Joerg,

[Are you threatened by fires?]

Then you've got to find a place to *store* the damn thing! :< (I've been procrastinating buying a tile/wet saw for exactly this reason)

You need to find yourself a less-expensive model!! ;-)

[I now have *three* pair of shoes and it has left me stressed to the max! Never can find the pair I want to wear... ]

--don

Reply to
Don Y
[...]

Sorry, the last link was wrong, this is the unit that got scratched up in service:

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I sawed the front panel from a larger piece of aluminum. One of the cuts actually had to be made with the bare saw blade wrapped in an old sock, the bow of the saw was too small to reach around. It resulted in some nasty blisters. I went all the way to 600-grit paper with chalk on this one.

But not for this job. You need a small router table as well, plus ideally a stand. Like this:

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Sure, but sometimes it's nice to build something with your hands. I still have stuff my grandpa made by hand, he taught me that.

--
Regards, Joerg 

http://www.analogconsultants.com/
Reply to
Joerg

No. Outside is easy -- you can bring power tools to bear (belt sanders, etc.) But, when cutting a long, thin slot/opening in the interior of the piece, your choices quickly get limited. Esp if you want nice square corners, etc.

The ones I've seen are all *mounted* from the back. See the images (URL) I posted in another reply.

--don

Reply to
Don Y

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