Connecting a 4mm^2 cable to a pcb track

Hi, i'm designing an inverter, and i'm having problems connecting the pcb tracks to the output cables, the current is 40 A. I have thought to solder the cable to the track but i think this solution is a little shoddy work, so some suggestions to make this?, thanks in advance.

Reply to
overgeo
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Without trying to belittle your efforts, if this design task presents a problem for you then I would suggest that your inverter isn't going to work either....

Reply to
Ross Herbert

Ross Herbert ha escrito:

What do you know about me? maybe i'm not going to make the inverter and is only a prototipe design, or maybe i'm in a team, and my design part is only make the pcb,and the hard electronic part is done by another people, or maybe another person give me all the design except the pcb i have to make the pcb, or maybe..., and if you are so smart that you can tell the people what they can do and what they can't do, why don't you answer the question?, if you haven't got any useful to say betther not say anything,

Reply to
overgeo

"overgeo" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

Crimp terminal + bolt + washer + (lock)nut.

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Reply to
Frank Bemelman

40A is alot for a pcb track, most people wire the power cables direct to the power devices.
Reply to
cbarn24050

There is quite a lot of physics involved in a proper high current connection technology- and the real world of applications comes into play with additional challenges such as oxidation and overcurrrent conditions. You would be better off using an experienced manufacturer with a successful track record such as:

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.

Reply to
Fred Bloggs

Either

A nylon-shell (Amp or Molex) connector, using several pins (and wires) in parallel for current and return

or

2 or better yet 3 (or 4?) faston tabs soldered to the board, multiple wires again

or, best yet,

leaf through the Mouser and Digikey catalogs, and check out the Amp (Tyco), Molex, and Methode web sites.

Note that thermal and voltage drop issues get nasty with currents like this on PC boards. This is not trivial.

John

Reply to
John Larkin

[...]

Way back in the day, I used to repair 1970s era colour TVs where tracks had become hot enough to char the PCB material and even burn holes, destroying the hot track and adjacent ones. (Usually in the line output stage) It was common practice to cut away the (now much more conductive than when it was new) charred board material from the edges of the hole, prepare the ends of the interrupted tracks by scraping and tinning, and reconnect them with "bridges" of insulated wire soldered directly to the track. Not pretty but cheaper than a new line output board, and also often more reliable than the original board.

Reply to
mike.j.harvey

Thanks for all your answers.

# snipped-for-privacy@aol.com

40A is alot for a pcb track, most people wire the power cables direct to the power devices.

I'm gonna use a copper bar and I have seen that can carries 40 A or bigger, but anyway can you tell me some adaptors in wich i can put an igbt with a to 247 capsule

#John Larkin -

Either

A nylon-shell (Amp or Molex) connector, using several pins (and wires) in parallel for current and return

or

2 or better yet 3 (or 4?) faston tabs soldered to the board, multiple wires again

or, best yet,

leaf through the Mouser and Digikey catalogs, and check out the Amp (Tyco), Molex, and Methode web sites.

Note that thermal and voltage drop issues get nasty with currents like this on PC boards. This is not trivial.

John

I have already seen that connectors and, it is a possible solution, you mean connectors like this?

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I think that is the solution that im gonna use.

# snipped-for-privacy@gmail.com Way back in the day, I used to repair 1970s era colour TVs where tracks had become hot enough to char the PCB material and even burn holes, destroying the hot track and adjacent ones. (Usually in the line output stage) It was common practice to cut away the (now much more conductive than when it was new) charred board material from the edges of the hole, prepare the ends of the interrupted tracks by scraping and tinning, and reconnect them with "bridges" of insulated wire soldered directly to the track. Not pretty but cheaper than a new line output board, and also often more reliable than the original board.

It's a good suggestion, i will have in account.

Reply to
overgeo

Perhaps my sarcasm was a bit over the top...

You did say "I'm designing an inverter..." so it is logical to assume that you meant what you said. If you were only responsible for the PCB design then you would first need to have the schematic and component makeup fairly well established and that can't be done in isolation from those responsible for this part of the project.

The problem you have asked about is something which power designers have had for 60 years since PCB's started to appear and there are numerous examples of how the problem has been overcome, particularly in heavy duty bench power supplies, battery chargers, UPS etc., So, if you had taken the time to look at some of these examples the answer would have started to become clear.

In the 1960's there weren't forums like newsgroups where lazy people could just ask and hope to get all the answers on a plate without doing any research themselves. They had to go out and look at what was available and even design new and novel solutions if nothing was there already. It all took time and considerable effort. Nobody minds helping others to solve a problem where it is evident that they have at least done some research. However, I have noticed that a number of queries such as yours emanate from people who have obviously not done one jot of investigation or research. I don't think those people really deserve to be simply handed the benefit of hard work done by others, just because they know the knowledge is out there. Do some research, look at examples of other equipment, and study connector catalogues first, like we had to do. If that doesn't produce the desired result, then you can ask - but when you ask you should explain how hard you have tried already so we get the right impression.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

It wasn't a suggestion, you dummy, it was a WARNING! A warning not to pass heavy currents through PCB tracks.

Reply to
mike.j.harvey

Ross Herbert ha escrito:

I don't have to explain what i'm gonna do, i just give you all the information needed, the pcb is for an inverter you don't need to know more (and really you don't need to know that is for a inverter). I still don't understand why ask my messages, do you like to answer without to say nothing useful?, i repeat you don't know anynthing about me, and you don't know if a make a research before, if i don't say a thing, that doesn't mean that i haven't done, i don't have to explain you everything. And i'm not going to tell you my success or my hard work just to cause a right impression for you.

And finally if you got a problem with questiones like this, pleas contact with the moderatos and tell them, and ask them that you want to be a moderator for ban messages like this, and a little advice, don't post stupid things like this, teach your "knowledge" to your son (if you got) or whatever you got (if you really got something). Have a nice day Ross Herbert.

Reply to
overgeo

This is not a moderated group, whether you like it, or not. You are accessing a Usenet newsgroup though Google Groups, and they have no control over this, or any other newsgroup, other than refusing to allow access to it.

Either learn to run with the big dogs, or go back and hide under the porch with the other fraidy cats.

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Reply to
Michael A. Terrell

Dont bother connecting them to the pcb at all - have your power transformer made with flying leads long enough to terminate on the output connectors.....

Andrew VK3BFA.

PS - open up a commercial high power ups, see how they do it.......might save annoyance from group members at your failing to do basic "screwdriver" reserch"

Reply to
Andrew VK3BFA

Work out the cross sectional area of track needed to carry the current without overheating. Simple math - track width x copper thickness. Then use M6 or similar size brass bolts and washers through pth holes in the board. Use both sides of the board if the copper weight is too low.

That's how many of the 3 phase motor drives and computer power supplies do it...

Chris

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Reply to
Chris Quayle

There are many solutions. The easiest is to use multiple screw terminals.

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Reply to
Nico Coesel

"overgeo" skrev i en meddelelse news: snipped-for-privacy@i42g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

It goes like this: *I* and most other people will help even genjuine

*ignorant* folks; but *I* will not help people who are obviously too lazy, stupid and too full of themselves to make an effort. Like

Correct - We got all the information to make a judgement whether we should bother with you or not right here ... sadly for you.

Only a fool takes a fools advice!

>
Reply to
Frithiof Andreas Jensen

Michael A. Terrell ha escrito:

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Hi, thanks for your answer, i didn't know that it was a moderated groups, i think that was like the forums that you find in the web, don't worry, i'm new in the usenet but not new in the internet i'm customary to see people who likes to flame.

Andrew VK3BFA ha escrito:

Thanks for your answer, mmm it's another solution but i will like to use a pcb because i have to do a pcb for the driver (ir2113) and i have seen in the international rectifier documentation that it's possible to carry the 40 A in a pcb, but if i find problems i will make that.

Chris Quayle ha escrito:

Chris thanks for your answer, I have already the width track with a temperature rise of 10=BAC, i made some calculus and i used a calculator that somebody says in this groups. It's another good solution use the M6 and a through hole.

Nico Coesel ha escrito:

Thanks for your answer, yes the easiest solution is that, and is the solution that i'm gonna try.

Thanks for all your answers, i got enough information to make the connection, and also i get many bonus information, thanks for the help.

Reply to
overgeo

Frankly, I'd be MUCH more worried about how a PCB is going to handle

40A.

If you've got that solved, then figure out whether it's easier to build/repair with Fastons, screws, or solder holes.

Good Luck! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

On 23 Jul 2006 04:00:44 -0700, "overgeo" Gave us:

Reply to
Phat Bytestard

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