The trick I use is to clip the earth clip of the "sick" car onto something insulated first (like a heater hose, or the insulation on the live battery cable). Then connect the live lead, connect the "good" battery clips and finally connect the ground clip. a no time is it necessary to keep loose clips separated.
I don't understand all the fuss. You only need one relay and a pushbutton that latches it on only if both polarities are correct. If you're a non-moron, you don't need anything but jumper cables.
That will work. I used to clip the clamp to the jumper cable itself, but th e ones I have now have a really strong spring and sharp teeth, so I don't c lip them to anything other than a battery post. No telling what future fail ure you get sated by damaging insulation on something.
The target market is probably people who are afraid of electricity. You know, people who think they will be killed by a 12 volt battery because it has so many amps.
I've known giant gruff hairy lumberjack-pickup type guys who are terrified of electricity.
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John Larkin Highland Technology, Inc
lunatic fringe electronics
What's the point? It's like saying help what do I do my food's not salty enough. I also wish these kind of idiot products didn't exist. Quadrupling the cost and tenthing the life expectancy is not my idea of a move forward.
Have you ever jump started a car with the cables backwards? I have when I wasn't paying attention. The result was a small spark, the smell of burning insulation, and a warm feeling from the giant alligator clip that I was holding. I rapidly determined that something was wrong and removed the giant alligator clip with some force. There was a piece of metal, about 1/2" in diameter, missing from the giant alligator clip. There was the possibility of igniting accumulated hydrogen gas inside the battery, but that didn't happen. In short, this is not a problem worth solving.
You could probably do better with a high current fusible link in series with each cable. In the middle to keep any sparks away from the hydrogen in the batteries. Short the cables (I've also done that when I wasn't paying attention) or connect them backwards, and the fusible link will melt. Starter current is about 200 amps, so I would guess(tm) a 400A fuse should be sufficient:
"HOW TO: World's Most Expensive Jumper Cables"
Drivel: Around 1973, on scenic Hwy 1, I stopped to help a gorgeous damsel in distress jump start her car. Pop the hood, attach the cables, and crank-n-grind. What could possibly go wrong? Well, two problems.
She was gorgeous and I was paying more attention to her than to what I was doing.
Her older British sports car (forgot year and model) had a positive 12V ground electrical system. I got her car started in short order, but before I disconnected the cables, she opened her door, which then touched the side of my car. Snap, crackle, pop, and I now had a small hole blown into the side of my car door.
Moral: Pay attention.
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Jeff Liebermann jeffl@cruzio.com
150 Felker St #D http://www.LearnByDestroying.com
Santa Cruz CA 95060 http://802.11junk.com
Skype: JeffLiebermann AE6KS 831-336-2558
Grab your right wrist with your left hand. Now do the same thing with the cables you take off the first battery. Don't use the part of the jaws with the teeth so you don't compromise the insulation. You can just drop it on the ground while disconnecting the other battery (unless you're working on a conducting floor).
No trick at all. No need to tart something up with electronics when smart s work better.
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