Adding a 6v boost to a 12v battery charger

I have access to a Schumacher wheeled battery charger that is 12 v only.

I want to use its boost feature (200amp) on 6 volt systems.

Any suggestions as to how to make a mod where the charger will do both

12v and 6v?

I have looked and have not found any schematics.

I am assuming that any mods will be downstream of the transformer.

Thanks for any suggestions.

TMT

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools
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That's a kilowatt problem, of course... If the charger has inductive filtering on the outputs (this is likely, because it allows better rectifier conduction duty cycle, keeps things cheaper), then you might be able to lower the RMS input voltage from 120VAC to something lower, and get proportional output. Some kinds of light dimmer (the ones for inductive loads, like dimmed halogen-lights-on-a-transformer) can safely handle it.

Reply to
whit3rd

I think that's not a good assumption. You need about a 6 volt tap on the transformer. I had an old battery charger/car starter that put out 300 amps at 10.5 volts. Somebody stole it, %$&^%! Mike

Reply to
amdx

Thanks for the responses so far...anyone else?

And any suggestions to other sites where I can post this question? Links please.

Thanks

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

No more suggestions?

Any suggestions where I could post this question where designers hang out?

Thanks

TMT

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

Let's try casting the net a bit further...anyone else have a suggestion as to how to do a conversion? Thanks

TMT

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

Why don't you open it up and see if its got any taps on the output of the transformer. Or if you are lucky a 220/230 volt centre tapped primary winding.

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.
Reply to
Baron

--
Plenty of good designers hang out here, but you\'re not going to get
anywhere being a smartass.

If I were you, I\'d get ahold of someone at Schumacher,

http://www.schumacherproducts.com/contact

tell them what you want to do, and see if they can\'t come up with a
solution for you.  Or, at the very least, a schematic.

If they can\'t help you with anything more than a schematic and you can
post it, then do that and maybe someone from around here will help you
out.

If you can\'t get a schematic, you can always "reverse engineer" the
thing, post what you find, and skin the cat that way.

JF
Reply to
John Fields

--
Since the boost function is only used to try to start an engine, then
figure if you want to cut the 12V down to 6 and you want to be drawing
200 amps at that time, then you might be able to just insert a 30
milliohm 1200 watt resistor between the battery and the charger.

There are power resistors available from various vendors which you could
use:

http://www.ohmite.com/cgi-bin/showpage.cgi?product=powrrib_series#parts

or you could make your own out of nichrome wire.

JF
Reply to
John Fields

See if you can get a tap on the transformer?

Reply to
PeterD

It should be obvious by now, that to many want to step up to the plate.

There are ways, but if you can't comprehend the basics of how, would it make any difference?

And I thought this was answered once before ? Or are you just spamming?

For starters, assuming that this unit has no voltage reliant devices in it. install a step down 2kw transformer to drop the incoming by half.

The price of this xformer will most doubtably change your mind on the project.

Reply to
Jamie

th

I am not trying to be a smartass.

My apologies to anyone who thought I was.

When a question is out there for days with minimal responses, you prompt the group for any other comments before moving on..which I did.

TMT TMT

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

OK, I kinda hate to suggest this as a solution... I'm afraid too-many- tools will become too-few....

But, if you had a second UNCHARGED battery to put in series it could act as the dropping resistor.

Please note the emphasis on uncharged. I'm afraid you will blow something up!

George H.

Reply to
George Herold

snip

I presume this is one of those wheel around big guys seen at repair shops and service stations.

I take it that the 200 amp is a feature you can select to start vehicles if you are in a big hurry and can't wait for the original battery to accept an adequate charge.

The 6 volt battery will, for a time, swamp the 14-16 volt charging voltage output down to the 7 or 8 volts if you hook it up as is. Better if you have a trickle charge or lower charging current feature selection to buy yourself more time with the 12 volt charging hook up.

You could then actuate the 200 amp feature to see if you can start the problematic vehicle. But I wouldn't leave it on for long.

Older chargers used selenium rectifier stacks and they have a built in current limiting (intrinsic resistance) and are very conservatively built.

Charging batteries is hazardous even with the right equipment, but unless this is a very tiny ampere hour battery, you should be able to do it for a minute or two before you start heating up the plates and permanently destroying the battery and possibly the rest of the automotive electrical system.

The suggestion about adding another 6 volt battery in series would work as well, you would have to position it between the vehicle being charged and hook up the positive of the vehicle battery to the negative pole of this added battery. The positive of the added battery going to the potitive lead of the charger.

Joe Rooney

Reply to
Joe Rooney

Okay...I found a schematic of a similar charger that Sears sells....

formatting link

Does this help?

TMT

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

formatting link

Difficult to see but it looks to have a multiple tapped primary. It also looks to have dual parallelled secondaries going into the rectifier.

--
Best Regards:
                     Baron.
Reply to
Baron

--
Of course not, since it\'s not the same charger.

I suggest you take the covers off your charger, take some pictures of
its guts, post them somewhere and give us a link to them.

alt.binaries.schematics.electronic is a good place.

Did you ever call Schumacher (toll-free, BTW) for help?

JF
Reply to
John Fields

th

The schematic is a valid one...who do you think makes the Sears charger?

TMT

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

--- What difference does it make?

Even if it's Schumacher there's no guarantee that the one you have is the one the schematic is for.

Again, why don't you contact Schumacher and ask _them_ for help?

JF

Reply to
John Fields

I did. ;

Reply to
Too_Many_Tools

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