Help finding a connector.

i found some many headers and sockets that it isn't funny in mouser. just use the search they have in interconnects and search for Sockets and headers. especially under molex

--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
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Did you even read my post? I have searched mouser and digikey at least

3 time each, and have had no luck. I'm not saying they don't have them, but I haven't been able to locate them.

--
Chris W
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yes i did and i found headers and sockets that will work at mouser. i looked at your images. You will have better luck looking in their catalog, their on line system takes too long the way they have it set up.

--
"I'm never wrong, once i thought i was, but was mistaken"
Real Programmers Do things like this.
http://webpages.charter.net/jamie_5

I've searched the website, pdf catalog and print catalog. I have found connectors that look similar but none that are the same and none that even look close and have a .050" spacing. All the ones that look similar are .100" spacing.

--
Chris W
KE5GIX

"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM,
learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"

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Take a look at the Molex 51021 plug bodies and matching contacts. Digi- Key stocks them and Mouser may have them as well.

You'll find it simpler to replace the connector I think.

Graham

I usually cannibalise something from out of the junkboxes. You can extract the individual pins from the shroud in your first photo by lifting the little plastic tab with a pin.

If you want to make up new cables like that, don't forget that you'll need the correct crimping tool as well.

--
   W  "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
 . | ,. w ,      
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---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

Thanks that is it. I was searching for 1.27mm and .050 not the 1.25mm. Now I just need wire. I wish digikey and mouser would sell something less than 100 feet of wire. I did see that Mouser had a 4 conductor cable with 2.5mm mini "stereo" type plug on it that is 6 feet long. That is plenty for what I need so as long as the wires are between 26 and 32 ga I will be good to go by Tuesday. Then I get to see how well I can "crimp" those tiny contacts with my needle nose pliers. I will probably tin the wires and then try and re-flow it after I "crimp" the wire in. If I had a crimper that would do a good job on that size wire I wouldn't have to bother with the solder.

--
Chris W
KE5GIX

"Protect your digital freedom and privacy, eliminate DRM,
learn more at http://www.defectivebydesign.org/what_is_drm"

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Um. The tolerances on those connectors are fairly tight. You'll probably find that if you solder those pins, they'll no longer lock into the shroud.

You should be able to locate the correct type of crimper from the csame catalog that has the connectors.

--
   W  "Some people are alive only because it is illegal to kill them."
 . | ,. w ,      
  \|/  \|/              Perna condita delenda est
---^----^---------------------------------------------------------------

I thought your connector in the picture looked familiar. We use the 15 and 16 pin versions in some of the products that we sell. We ended up buying the matching crimper and contract extraction tool ($100+ for a strip of stainless steel milled down on three sides). It is still a PITA to attach the contacts with the crimper

As Lionel mentioned in another post, be very careful if you try to solder instead of crimping the contacts. The strip length is under 1 mm if I remember correctly. Tinning the stripped end with a bit of extra solder and then not using any extra solder to attach the contact may work to keep the solder out of the mating area.

FYI, Another possible source of wire may be to peel off the individual wire from an 80 conductor ribbon cable used with the some parallel interface hard drives.

-- Chuck W.

get anything that has correct spacing, razor blade will trim plastic until u can fit.

be creative

if you are commercial, then keep looking.

if u always want EXACT stuff, u need to be prepared to know about 10 million diffrent parts and 10000 different suppliers.

it aint easy, thats why STANDARDS are used to desing many items, foreigners have their own set of STANDARDS.

proprietary is the bad word.

yes soldering those tiny nits is tough even for dainty female dexterous fingers!

magnifier is requisite if u do

we sometime crimp and then add a smidge of nickle plate circuit board repair paint to flood the joint with conductive.

if u crimp, never 'crush' it, just crimp it. vast difference in pressure!

last resort, replace the header with wire jumper set and run it out to an easily sourced connector mounted somewhere .

last last resort, never purchase products with these tiny stinking things at all! spend money on a trip to bahamas instead! :-))

Digi-