The angle's about right, but is there such a thing as stratosphere bounce? or is the installer instead exploiting a side-lobe of the antenna?
The angle's about right, but is there such a thing as stratosphere bounce? or is the installer instead exploiting a side-lobe of the antenna?
-- This email has not been checked by half-arsed antivirus software
Just looked in roof, coax goes nowhere near light so ferrite at fitting next, who knows where next if that does not work.
Check your earth wire is working (earthed) if your Aerial is OK.
-- Petzl Arguing with a woman is like reading the Software License Agreement.
Everything worked (sort of, always a bit iffy in strange weather, better when I raised aerial) for 4 years, suddenly all or nothing when light installed (almost no tv when light on)
I have no idea. All I know is that before, when I tried to use line-of-sight (through a stand of large trees 500m away) the best signal I got would drop out a lot. The installer hooked up a signal meter, turned it left and right at first then angled it up. Since then even in bad weather the signal's rock solid.
-- Shaun. "Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy
I caved in when my TV became glitchy Had the terracotta roof high pressure washed new gutters installed
THEN a new aerial perfect can now turn on computers anything no TV problems
-- Petzl Arguing with a woman is like reading the Software License Agreement.
No bad connections in the coax?
-- Xeno First they ignore you,
If you have to reset it after the inrush - that's probably why you're not seeing the cycle by cycle current peaks around the point of maximum rate of change.
It could seem that way to someone with the attention span of a goldfish......................
Get a better LED light and get it from somewhere like Bunnings or Kmart or Amazon so you can return it if its just as bad as the one you already have.
Or Aldi.
No, you have to reset it because the range of the current display has expanded so much, by the inrush, that you don't see the normal current curve. There is no such thing as a current peak once it is on. There is a switch on the top right of the schematics. You can click on it to switch on and off and see what the circuit does, as well.
I have built and used such circuits often. Using an X rated capacitor or/and a small "sacrificial" resistor in series will make sure that it won't catch fire due to a short in the capacitor.
You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.
"normal current curve"? - its only the sinusoidal drive that takes the edge off the capacitor current that peaks around the zero crossing point.
You could switch the circuit on *ANYWHERE* on the cycle - it could be at the peak and cause a big current pulse, or at zero where it starts at zero and rises pretty much the same as continuous operation.
The AC current in a theoretically ideal capacitor leads voltage by 90 degrees - its not some great mystery from an alternate universe with different laws of physics.
I'll certainly concede to your expertise at bullshit.
You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.
When are you due for your next lucid moment?
You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.
Not for a while yet then...............................
It's you that need to get real. The current does not "get very high' around the zero crossing. It just reaches its maximum there because of the phase shift of the capacitor. The resistor you were talking about is only there to protect the circuit from melt down in case the capacitor shorts out. Full stop. Unless you have a non-linear load that's just the end of the discussion.
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