Tv reception

The angle's about right, but is there such a thing as stratosphere bounce? or is the installer instead exploiting a side-lobe of the antenna?

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Reply to
Jasen Betts
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Just looked in roof, coax goes nowhere near light so ferrite at fitting next, who knows where next if that does not work.

Reply to
F Murtz

Check your earth wire is working (earthed) if your Aerial is OK.

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Petzl 
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Reply to
Petzl

Everything worked (sort of, always a bit iffy in strange weather, better when I raised aerial) for 4 years, suddenly all or nothing when light installed (almost no tv when light on)

Reply to
F Murtz

I have no idea. All I know is that before, when I tried to use line-of-sight (through a stand of large trees 500m away) the best signal I got would drop out a lot. The installer hooked up a signal meter, turned it left and right at first then angled it up. Since then even in bad weather the signal's rock solid.

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Shaun. 

"Humans will have advanced a long, long way when religious belief has a cozy  
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Reply to
~misfit~

I caved in when my TV became glitchy Had the terracotta roof high pressure washed new gutters installed

THEN a new aerial perfect can now turn on computers anything no TV problems

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Petzl 
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Reply to
Petzl

No bad connections in the coax?

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Xeno 

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Reply to
Xeno

If you have to reset it after the inrush - that's probably why you're not seeing the cycle by cycle current peaks around the point of maximum rate of change.

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

It could seem that way to someone with the attention span of a goldfish......................

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

Get a better LED light and get it from somewhere like Bunnings or Kmart or Amazon so you can return it if its just as bad as the one you already have.

Reply to
Rod Speed

Or Aldi.

Reply to
Rod Speed

No, you have to reset it because the range of the current display has expanded so much, by the inrush, that you don't see the normal current curve. There is no such thing as a current peak once it is on. There is a switch on the top right of the schematics. You can click on it to switch on and off and see what the circuit does, as well.

I have built and used such circuits often. Using an X rated capacitor or/and a small "sacrificial" resistor in series will make sure that it won't catch fire due to a short in the capacitor.

Reply to
Tony

You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.

Reply to
Rod Speed

"normal current curve"? - its only the sinusoidal drive that takes the edge off the capacitor current that peaks around the zero crossing point.

You could switch the circuit on *ANYWHERE* on the cycle - it could be at the peak and cause a big current pulse, or at zero where it starts at zero and rises pretty much the same as continuous operation.

The AC current in a theoretically ideal capacitor leads voltage by 90 degrees - its not some great mystery from an alternate universe with different laws of physics.

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

I'll certainly concede to your expertise at bullshit.

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.

Reply to
Rod Speed

When are you due for your next lucid moment?

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

You never could bullshit your way out of a wet paper bag.

Reply to
Rod Speed

Not for a while yet then...............................

Reply to
Benderthe.evilrobot

It's you that need to get real. The current does not "get very high' around the zero crossing. It just reaches its maximum there because of the phase shift of the capacitor. The resistor you were talking about is only there to protect the circuit from melt down in case the capacitor shorts out. Full stop. Unless you have a non-linear load that's just the end of the discussion.

Reply to
Tony

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