Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?

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It seems one of the disadvantages of using water from bath / washing machine
is that the bloody mice get in from where the hose exits the house. One (at
least) of the little buggers refuses to be beaten, cunning mongrel eats the
bait off the mousetrap, craps, and scatters away unharmed!

What sort of current does it take to kill a mouse? And not knowing much of
the anatomy specifics and resistance of a mouse body, what sort of voltage
do you suppose would do the trick? :)

I thought a nice idea might be to use 240v, with just a smear of peanut
butter on the active and a metal  plate below connected to the neutral, only
thing is I dont want to kill anyone or burn the place down (although that
would get rid of the mice).

What about a flash circuit from an old camera? I know last time i got a kick
from one of them it hurt like all get up and left a nice burn mark in my
little finger :)

Food for thought, albeit a kind of impractical geekish way to go about
killing a bloody rodent....

James



Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


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    I solved the problem by building a mouse-catching gadget out of a
coffee can, some rubber bands, bits of paper clips and a trigger circuit
which discharges a big electrolytic cap into a solenoid to make it close.
    Then I put the mice into a mouse house I got at a pet shop. Some
wild mice become very tame after a while when they're well fed, and
they're pretty intelligent.
    I wonder how Leo would like the idea of an electronically-triggered
mouse catcher as a project?


Bob


PS: No, it doesn't use a microcontroller. ;)

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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I was considering the solenoid idea triggered buy interupted IR beam cct,
that way if the beam is aimed correctly the mouse doesn't have to be gnawing
hard on the bait to trigger it, what differs is I'm not really too
interested in keeping the mice live :)

James

P.S. I wasn't planning on going to the extent of using a micro either, seems
like a waste, especially since I only have ATMega32s laying around at the
moment






Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


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    There are plenty of conventional possible solutions to the problem
in your local supermarket. Poisons, devious plastic mousetraps, etc etc.

    One of them should deal with your rodent(s) effectively. :)

Bob

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


On Thu, 01 Mar 2007 23:20:10 +1100, Bob Parker

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I like the cheeseless mousetrap. It consists of a ramp with a razor
blade at the top. The mouse climbs up the ramp, peers over the edge,
and moves his head from side to side saying "where's the f***ing
cheese!"

- Franc Zabkar
--
Please remove one 'i' from my address when replying by email.

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


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Most pet shop mice seem to get cancer these days, maybe they have lab
mice genetics that make em susceptible to it. You could breed yours
with them to improve the breed.

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


just tie the bait on, I found that works OK



It seems one of the disadvantages of using water from bath / washing machine
is that the bloody mice get in from where the hose exits the house. One (at
least) of the little buggers refuses to be beaten, cunning mongrel eats the
bait off the mousetrap, craps, and scatters away unharmed!

What sort of current does it take to kill a mouse? And not knowing much of
the anatomy specifics and resistance of a mouse body, what sort of voltage
do you suppose would do the trick? :)

I thought a nice idea might be to use 240v, with just a smear of peanut
butter on the active and a metal  plate below connected to the neutral, only
thing is I dont want to kill anyone or burn the place down (although that
would get rid of the mice).

What about a flash circuit from an old camera? I know last time i got a kick
from one of them it hurt like all get up and left a nice burn mark in my
little finger :)

Food for thought, albeit a kind of impractical geekish way to go about
killing a bloody rodent....

James




Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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**I had the same problems. Modern mousetraps (rat traps) are crap. The
spring lacks the power to crack their little necks and the trigger mechanism
is not reliable. I resorted to baiting. It works very effectively. In fact,
I found that snail baits worked VERY well. MUCH faster kill than regular rat
baits. Trouble is, 'round here, I need to protect the native wild life from
the baits.


--
Trevor Wilson
www.rageaudio.com.au



--

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


Well you could use a biological agent which employs chemically advanced
technology to seek and eliminate the problem and it also disposes the
collected mouse material as fuel as well, leaving behind a fertiliser that
it then returns to the soil. This is refered to as symbiotic and helpful
intigrated technology.
Ogo.

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Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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You refer, I presume, to the tried and proven "Ball-bearing Mousekiller".



Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


Yup! cute and cuddly too (Unless you're a mouse!)
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Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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Don't you have grills over the outlets in the sink?

You would probably be better served by trying to find the holes where the mouse
enters your house. Or leave out some bait.

BTW, what the advertisers say about the rodents crawling away to die is a bunch
of crap.
The mouse dies under the floorboards and rots there, causing a stink so bad that
you
can't go into the room for a couple of weeks.


Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


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bunch of crap.
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that you
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It deepends on the moisture content of the area. We once cleaned out a
dead cat that would revive the odorous content whenever it rained. It
took an electrician to "find" the reason for the smell when he went to
rewire the house and drew their attention to the source of the smell,
having experienced this problem a few times during the course of his job.

They paid him a small bonus.

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


Living in the bush and suffering periodic mouse infestations, I concur re the
smell - but
you get used to it in the house after a few days, and after a week or two it
aint too bad

But my biggest problem is the little buggers that invade my 4Runners ventilation
fan -
somehow they get in there, though I can't figger out how, and when I turn the air
conditioner on the fan goes clunk clunk clunk (for a long while) as their little
heads get
banged around.  Then in a day or so whenever the fan runs the car is filled with
the stench
of dead and decaying mouse, and that lasts for weeks and weeks.

David

dmm wrote:

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bunch of crap.
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that you
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Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?


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smell - but
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aint too bad
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ventilation fan -
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air
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little heads get
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with the stench
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    I know what you mean. Once a rodent died of apparently natural
causes in the cavity between the walls. We never did work out where the
appalling stench was coming from, until much later when a builder
discovered the remains while doing other work.


Cheers
Bob
(bleat)


Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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smell - but
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aint too bad
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ventilation fan -
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air
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little heads get
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with the stench
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A cousin in his uni days had a veewee beetle, and one (mouse) managed to get
into the heating duct that (from memory) has outlets either side of the rear
seat, at floor level.  Bugger never escaped, and the smell was even worse if you
had occasion to use the heater on a cold day/night.

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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Unless you want to turn rodent elimination into a hobby in itself, forget the
technical approach.  The only type of real mousetrap that works is those
octagonal ones with four holes.  Get one (even though nowadays they are chinese
plastic instead of SouthAussie wood).

Re: Slightly OT- Improving the mousetrap?



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I made a mouse electrocution device some years ago. Imagine, if you will, a
spare SC electronic ignition module driving a car coil with HT connected to
several  pointed electrodes 100mm above a horizontal 50 mm metal disc. The
metal disc is attached to a long and very lightly spring loaded balsa wood
lever so any disturbance like a mouse hopping onto the disc causes the other
end of the lever to withdraw a tab from between an IR led/diode pair. This
triggers a 555 timer for 10 seconds which sets off a second 555 oscillator
running at around 100Hz which drives the ignition module. Whole thing was
powered from the 12V workshop car battery. The lever and tab device was to
keep the artificial lightning bolt away from the trigger electronics.

My then 8 year old neighbour was very interested in the blue sparks and
ozone smell and was an eager assistant in my trial runs using several cherry
tomatos. I wanted to ensure that 10 seconds of lightning at who knows how
many kV would not cause an organic bag of moist material to explode and
scatter itself all over the kitchen. It didn't. The tomatos just warmed up a
little.

Did it work? Yes it did, over several nights of operation.  However, the
trap had to be reset after each victim and the disc and base needed to be
thoroughly washed, though not because of mouse blood and guts. The corpses
looked unmarked and peaceful. Mice have acute senses and won't go near a
trap that smells of death. It was a pain getting my jury rigged spring
loaded lever reset just right. Something did go wrong eventually and my
555's and transistors were fried by EHT.

The 8 year old cried when he saw the first victim, a pretty little champagne
coloured beast with a black face. (My mice seemed to have a large admixture
of petshop mouse genes). All I could say was "welcome to adulthood" where
you often have to do things you'd rather not do. I was, however, encouraged
to see that the kids addiction to mindlessly violent video shoot-em-ups
hadn't blunted his sensibilities.

After that I resorted to the biological control agent mentioned in another
reply. (Meow).

Peter H



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