Goot Soldering Station

I bought a GOOT 240V iron and was disappointed. Temp was very low, when I opened it up to try and tweak the internal trimpot, I discoverted the guts were shoved down the handle so that reassembly was difficult. Thing went bang and I binned it. Low voltage types may be good, though

Roger

As are Weller.

Wonder what they'll be selling next week!

Link doesn't work, but last time I looked they were selling something called Durateck and Hakko

Most of us wouldn't bother.

Unless their backup is similar they almost certainly won't.

Hakko and Weller both have good backup with good availability of spares, which you'll need sooner or later no matter what you buy.

Hakko have variable temperature (which isn't necessarily an advantage) and a light that goes out when it reaches temperature. Downside is it's easy to accidentally bump the temperature control, and more likely to be accidentally left switched on (which you can easily avoid by having your soldering iron on on the same switch as your work light).

Weller have a better range of tips, both genuine and aftermarket. They also have a power on light (which makes it easy to see when it's switched on), but you've gotta listen for the click (or hold it in your hand) to know when it reaches temperature.

I've currently got 2 Wellers and a Hakko, with no serious complaints against either brand, and a very slight preference for Weller (due to the better range of tips). It might also be worth comparing the price and availability of SMD removal tips if you have a need for them.

Avoid wet sponges like the plague and you'll get a lot better run out of whatever you decide to buy.

-- John H

"John_H" Neo

** That is certainly true of the Weller WTCPT mechanically switched rons - you will need **lots of spares** and often. ** Huh ?

Continuously variable temp with a knob is not an advantage ??

** What a weird way to explain a LED that cycles with the iron's heater. ** Huh ??

** Huh ??????

** Applies to any iron.

** Hakko have a very good range too - yet another non issue.

** The mechanical switch in the Weller WTCPT is piece of garbage that constantly fails - and so does that fragile heater unit too.

This is very annoying, time wasting PLUS ***damn*** expensive.

OTOH - Hakko irons seem to go on for ever with no repairs.

** Please explain ???

........... Phil

Go for the Hakko. You'll be guaranteed to get spares in the future along with a whole range of tips and accesories. The Hakkos are very reliable too, you simply cannot go wrong buying a Hakko.

Anything Jaycar sell will certainly be inferior to the Hakko.

Dave :)

A dry tip cleaner, such as Hakko 599B, extends tip life enormously. Nor have I replaced a heating element since I stopped using wet sponges -- reduced thermal shock maybe.

FWIW I've _never_ had to replace a thermal switch in my own WT's, the oldest of which I've been using for over twenty years. I've always suspected that those who do have problems (and I'm well aware of plenty that do) destroy the switches by bumping the iron to remove excess solder.... As used to be common practice in the days before solder stations.

-- John H

Dunno bout Goot, but if you can find Weller stations in Oz, they won't disappoint. Depending on where you buy, Weller stations can cost a bit more than others, but in my experience they've proven very durable and reliable over the decades.

more

Weller has made excellent stuff in the past, though lately their quality has slipped. I'd second the recommendation for a Hakko, we have a 936 in the lab at work and it's excellent.

go for the Hakko 942. The tips are hot-pluggable (pun intentional), and the iron performs almost as well as my Metcal (but cost 10x less). Dynamic thermal response is excellent, as the temperature sensor and heater are right at the probe tip.

Cheers Terry

** Why ? That sounds like pure BS to me. ** Now, that IS pure BS.

** You oughta donate it to the Smithsonian - put it alongside that 40 watt ES bulb that has been in the same outdoor dunny for 60 years !!!! ** Drivel.

** 240 volt irons have much finer wire in the heater than 24 or 48 volt ones.

The Birkos were long lasters - Adcolas were not, both were way better than Weller crap.

........... Phil

There is nothing funadmentally wrong with the design of the Weller WTCP series irons.

Most element failures on these irons are due to idiots who seem to think they have to constantly tap the barrel of the iron to flick excess solder from the tip, rather than using a dampened sponge to wipe off excess solder on the tip as recommended by the manufacturer. It's amazing just how long tools can last when they are used correctly and in accordance with the maker's instructions. :)

Admittely having to change tips to change operating temperature is a PITA, but if you are using the same solder there is no need to. Even with the electronic temperature controlled irons you still have to change tips to suit the job you are doing, so no real advantage here.

I still have an old W-TCP-D (more than 30 y.o.) and it's still going strong on its original element and switch. It isn't on 24/7, but in its earlier life it sure had its fair share of work where it was used every working day and left on for up to almost 9 hours at a time. I've also got a later model Weller (TC-202-D power unit + TCP-1 iron) and likewise have had absolutely no problem with it either. Even in a training college environment where we had hundreds of soldering irons, the Weller TCP series were the least troublesome of the lot. Not bad considering trainee techs are usually the last to RTFM.

I guess some (like Phil) may have had less than an impressive run with the Weller TCP series, but I can't say I've experienced the same failures.

Cheers, Alan

Hakko or Xytronic both very good and can get spares easily.

Have a Xytronic 988D sitting on my desk , has worked flawlessly.

For tip cleaning , the dry type tip cleaners (look like left overs from turning copper) work well and avoid needing a wet sponge or replacement sponges.

Alex

Alex, does the solder waste stick to the dry tip cleaners? Is it easy to clean the solder from the "swarf", ie shaking it?

Yes. They clean up pretty well. Depends how much excess solder you use.

Alex