Controlling time-lapse photography (Long)

"L.A.T."

** This sounds like a nice project for SC magazine.

All it takes is a small RC servo, a pulse position contol circuit ( can be as simple as one LM555) and an adjustable interval timer. The lot could be done with one of the simplest PICs.

The whole caboodle then goes in a plastic box with the servo positioned so it can push the camera shutter.

To make a waterproof version for weather photography, add a clear lid.

Power could be from four AA size NiMH cells - go for months.

DLJ - where are you ??

..... Phil

Go to someone local to you who can design and build electronic circuits. They can custom design and build a variable timer for you that should be able to trigger your camera.

If you visit some professional camera stores, I am sure there must be some commercial products for this type of thing. There are many people who require various types of photo timers for specific aspects of industry. I would check that out.

I don't know how compact your set-up has to be. It may be possible to adapt some type of system using solar panels to charge your batteries if the photos are being taken during daylight hours.

If solar panels are not practical, maybe you can have an external battery pack custom made that can use larger batteries such as a gel cell pack. As long as the voltage is correct, and everything is wired properly this should work out very well.

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JANA _____

The other way is to buy something like Canon S2 IS, it has the ability in the firmware. You just specify time interval and number of pictures to take. I'm sure other Canon models have this ability as well.

Tom

Speaking of SC, the June edition has an updated version of the Flexitimer. It is designed to energise a 12Volt relay. It seems to me that I could leave out the relay and replace it with two leads going to a butchered Canon IR remote with appropriate resistance to lower the voltage to the three volts required by the remote. These two leads would replace the shutter switch on the remote. The flexitimer could sit on the ground and the IR remote could be fixed up near the camera, pointing at the IR receiver. IR remotes claiming to be suitable for the G2 camera are available for less than $10. I am tempted to give it a try. I like the idea of a system that has no mechanical components and uses existing systems.

"L.A.T." "Phil Allison"

** I like idea of a dead simple, low cost method that will works with a huge range of budget priced digital cameras.

Plus it involves no access to the insides of the camera or anything else.

Be great for surveillance applications as well as time lapse imaging.

..... Phil

IR would be the best solution. I know someone that got an IR kit (from China via eBay I think) for a G2, and I believe there are many circuits and PIC code etc around the web. I like the idea of no mechanical bits too.

Why don't modern cameras have this function? Would be great if they could power up in the last mode, take a pic, then shut down until the next time period. It's just a bit of firmware.

Dave.

Not only that, but most cameras have an external trigger, you just have to find the right pins, usually its not even mentioned in the manual either.

2 out of 3 digital cameras I have owned have this function.

Samsung 210 Canon 3S IS

AFAIK the Canon A75 has it too.

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Regards,

Adrian Jansen           adrianjansen at internode dot on dot net
Design Engineer         J & K Micro Systems
Microcomputer solutions for industrial control
Note reply address is invalid, convert address above to machine form.

In that case the OP is much better off simply getting one of these. No mess, no fuss, and best us of battery life.

Dave.

Your only fault, and the OP too for considering it, a servo would introduce camera shake, resulting in blurry photos. Much better to use IR in this application, or by using the remote shutter release port on the camera, if the camera has one.

Once again, thank you all for your comments and suggestions. Buying a new camera is out of the question, alas. I have decided to make the Flexitimer Mk4 from June's S.C. and use it to switch an I.R. remote. I have ordered a couple of remotes from a place in Hong Kong at, wait for it, $1.90 each. Postage $7.00 It seems a very low price but I know of people who have dealt with them and they are legit. I imagine I will destroy the first one as I try to find out how to get inside it. My electronics expertise ended with the valve era, so I am uncertain about a few things. Has anyone seen the circuit for this flexitimer? It seems to me that the only reason it needs 12Volts is to actuate the relay. Anything else is on the other side of a 5Volt regulator. My question: If I use the device without the relay, would it work if its supply was 6Volts?

It doesn't look like anything other than the relay needs 12V. As it stands, the 5V to the PIC will start to droop if you go below about

7.5V (drop across D8, and the requirements of the 78L05), but you might be hard pressed to notice the difference since the PIC should be happy with its voltage below 5V. The specification for the PIC used says it will run as low as 3V but it could depend on whether they have programmed "brownout reset" to be enabled.

Andy Wood snipped-for-privacy@trap.ozemail.com.au

A number of last-generation Canon powershot cameras can be reprogrammed with free software firmware THAT LEAVES EVERYTHING ELSE FOR DEAD. See:

With CHDK, there's motion-sensing triggering (fast enough to capture lightning!), BASIC scripting, arbitary ISO control, Exposure control (from infinity to ~1/50,000s), and about a hundred of other features. It's GPL software that turns a $100 camera into a $80,000 camera for free...

I'm doing exactly the same thing the original poster is doing to capture noctural fuana in the act, but with a "$100" Canon Powershot A550, using the 'allbest' replacement firmware, and no modifictions to the camera at all-- not even to the onboard firmware. The only hardware you'd probably need is an external 3.15VDC power source-- something that's trivial to provide.

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Chris

For the record, and for those interested, I have made the flexitimer without installing the relay. It runs well at nine volts and if I remove the LED and take two wires from its site, it seems to actuate the I.R. remote reliably. Next step is to see if I can find a simple, small, I.R. transmitter circuit and

1. discover what sort of sequence the Canon expects, and
2. discover how to transmit such a sequence.

Google (everybody's friend) tells me that many of the cameras with some sort of time-lapse built in are not versatile enough to do even the simple task we want. And that there is a $40 plug-in device already available from Hong Kong that does exactly what we want for the Canon 350D and 450D. It is called the Phottix C1.

Once more, for those interested, I have finished my timer/remote combination. It is called the iThumb.

I have used one of the IR remotes from Hong Kong.

The PCB is covered by a stick-on plastic cover with membrane switches and can be peeled off.. The box in the middle has the switches for the Canon camera, and the top left "S" is the shutter release. Shorting this switch actuates the shutter. The add-on block of white domestic terminals is held in place by one screw and Araldite. The outer two terminals are soldered to appropriate places on the PCB and the two centre terminals are soldered to the site of the 3Volt button battery so that a battery-holder with 2 AA batteries can be connected. The IR LED is removed and soldered to the lugs on a RCA plug.

The PCB lugs where the IR LED was sited are connected to a RCA socket in the jiffy box. The IR LED can be plugged directly into the box or attached to the box via a short RCA cable with a plug at one end and a socket at the other..

The device works reliably with the box sitting at the base of the tripod, pointing up to the camera, best with a piece of cardboard at an angle over the IR receiver in the camera as a deflector.