Bare PCB mount Banana Jack?

Does anyone know were to get bare PCB mount 4mm Banana Jacks (socket)? The kind you find when you open a typical digital multimeter, with just the bare metal shaft.

The usual suppliers and searching aren't bringing up much.

Thanks Dave.

Reply to
David L. Jones
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"David L. Jones"

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..... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

Thanks Phil, but that's not it. This is what I'm talking about:

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Bottom right corner, just the bare 4mm turret/tube that solder directly to the PCB. (BTW, that took a ridiculously long time to find a photo of, my Google mojo must be way off today)

Dave.

Reply to
David L. Jones

"David L. Jones" "Phil Allison"

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** Nothing stops you using the two nuts, one above and one under the PCB to achieve the same result.

Solder them to the pcb as well if you like.

.... Phil

Reply to
Phil Allison

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Reply to
mkaras

Thanks, but that ain't it. As posted elsewhere in the thread, this is what I'm specifically after:

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The solder type with just the bare 4mm barrel, as used in multimeters.

I'm aware of the many screw, press fit, and other mounting alternatives, but that's not what I'm after in this case.

Thanks. Dave.

Reply to
David L. Jones

:On Dec 1, 1:31 pm, mkaras wrote: :> On Nov 30, 4:29 pm, "David L. Jones" wrote: :>

:> > Does anyone know were to get bare PCB mount 4mm Banana Jacks (socket)? :> > The kind you find when you open a typical digital multimeter, with :> > just the bare metal shaft. :>

:> > The usual suppliers and searching aren't bringing up much. :>

:> > Thanks :> > Dave. :>

:>

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:>

:>

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: :Thanks, but that ain't it. :As posted elsewhere in the thread, this is what I'm specifically :after: :
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:The solder type with just the bare 4mm barrel, as used in multimeters. : :I'm aware of the many screw, press fit, and other mounting :alternatives, but that's not what I'm after in this case. : :Thanks. :Dave.

This claims to be pcb mount 4mm socket but I can't see how it provides reliable mounting.

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Reply to
Ross Herbert

Plain old swaged un-threaded standoff?

Cheers

Reply to
Martin Riddle

You could try to find a piece of 4mm ID tube and just solder it in place. Check the hardware stores or hobby shops for brass tubing.

Good Luck! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

I was thinking a *really* crappy solution would be a 4mm through-hole in the PCB :)

--

John Devereux
Reply to
John Devereux

Following up the tubing idea:

At the McMaster-Carr site:

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Search for part: 8859K22

Reply to
mkaras

PCB-mount banana sockets instantly bring the word 'fracture' to my mind...

geoff

Reply to
geoff

: : :PCB-mount banana sockets instantly bring the word 'fracture' to my mind... : :geoff :

Taking a new look at the PCB 4mm socket in the link I gave to to Rapid seems to infer that it must be mounted in a 4.8mm diameter plated thru-hole. Soldering on both sides (and inside the thru-hole) would ensure maximum rigidity and freedom from cracking.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

on

Solder is NEVER suitable as a mechanical joint.

Peter

Reply to
Pete

to

on

freedom

Do you always glue down SMT parts before soldering?

Best regards, Spehro Pefhany

--
"it\'s the network..."                          "The Journey is the reward"
speff@interlog.com             Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog  Info for designers:  http://www.speff.com
Reply to
Spehro Pefhany

Tell that to Fluke who have used PCB mount banana sockets from day one in their famous 70 series meters. Many other manufacturers too.

Dave.

Reply to
David L. Jones

:Ross Herbert wrote: : :> Taking a new look at the PCB 4mm socket in the link I gave to to Rapid seems to :> infer that it must be mounted in a 4.8mm diameter plated thru-hole. Soldering on :> both sides (and inside the thru-hole) would ensure maximum rigidity and freedom :> from cracking. : :Solder is NEVER suitable as a mechanical joint. : :Peter

What utter crap!

How do you think almost every electronic component is fixed to a PCB? If solder wasn't a suitable mechanical joint then all those electronics enginers have been seriously misguided over the past 80 years.

I don't think things have changed since I was tought the importance of soldering in electronics back in the 1950's.

The purpose of soldering is to provide;

1) mechanical support - to physically hold components together. 2) electrical support - to ensure reliable electrical connections.

If you are referring ONLY to components which must endure some regular physical stress (such as plugging in a 4mm banana plug) then for sure, extra strength is required. I wouldn't call this particular action to be particularly stressful on the soldered joint BTW. Also, if these TruConnect 4mm sockets from Rapid are correctly mounted in a plated thru-hole of the correct diameter with adequate sized solder pads, and they are soldered both top and bottom with a good fillet of 60/40 solder, I would be prepared to guarantee that the joints will not fracture over the lifetime of the product they are mounted in.

Reply to
Ross Herbert

seems to

dering on

freedom

If the joint isnt going to get too hot (expand/contract with temperature causing metal fatigue and cracking of the joint, or overheat to the point that the solder starts to melt and form a dry joint), or suffers lots of vibration that puts mechanical stress on the join, and is done properly, on clean surfaces with enough solder and the right soldering temperature it won't give any problems.

In consumer electronics pretty much all components, connectors, wires etc are all held in their PCB's by solder alone. SMD devices are usually glued down before soldering, but this is more to keep them in place when they go through wave soldering, (board is turned upside down during this process) the glue is not necessary to keep them there once soldered in. (note - wires that go to plugs and headers are typically crimped or use IDC to hold in place).

What is done in applications like military and space equipment, I dont know.

I think you are thinking back to the old days with valve equipment where there was a belief that joints (component leads and connecting wires were attached to tag strips) should make adequate electrical connection without needing solder (by being wrapped around the terminal, or later, wire wrap,) and the solder should only be applied to cover, protect and seal the join, not to make the electrical connection.

If you have ever tried to unsolder and remove a component from one of these chassis, you will know what I'm talking about :)

Reply to
kreed

That's done routinely - see "feedthrough capacitor". :-)

Cheers! Rich

Reply to
Rich Grise

Yes. I've fixed so many of those....

geoff

Reply to
geoff

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