I have acquired an Altronics C9063 headset - unused - which has been "modified" to use 2.5mm and 3.5mm connectors. Unfortunately the mod hasn't worked, and to try and sort it I would like confirmation of the colour coding of the individual cables within the lead to the headset. Yeah, I know, I should be able to sort it with a multimeter, but having the info would assist.
Anyone have this info (which Altronics won't divulge)?
i love this sort of tripe. we wont help unless you pay us dollars.
mine is a c9073 with a helicopter boom mike.
the speakers in each ear have red wires and white wires to them. from the volume potentiometer there is a red wire to the speakers and a green wire that goes to the leads. there is a white wire out of the leads that goes to a speaker solder tab.
there is what looks to be a fat blue electrolytic capacitor marked v300k7 among other things. on one leg of the cap is a grey wire from the boom and a red wire from the leads. on the other leg of the cap is a white wire from the boom and a blue wire from the leads. (the cap has two wires on each leg.)
the speaker in the leads earpiece has two red wires on one tab and two white wires on the other tab.
been through the pain of a broken wire myself. in the end I paid altronics to fix it. they evidently put all new leads on and it hasnt had a glitch since.
take the gell seal off and carefully pull out the foam. there is a layer of foam over the speaker, a donut of foam around it and a piece of foam under it. the speaker screws in place with two screws on dog ears. it is simple.
btw I use dave clark gel seals on mine :-)
I heard third hand a while back that he was flying for a small airline out of some south pacific island nation and having a ball.
It's s**te, isn't it. And in this case, even though they repair them, it just
*might* be because they don't actually know. Reason: it seems the colours used in the main lead aren't constant. The leetle chinois factory must be grabbing whatever four-core-'n-sheath they can. Yours has a white (plus red,bleu and green) where mine has a black.
It certainly makes sense. I've tried driving this thing with audio to the green-black (your white?) pair but the level I get is barely discernible with the pot wound right up. Nothing else meters out with a DC resistance.
Pulled off the heatshrink that was inside the 3.5mm, found the dipstick who assembled this was world-class. The white (return) went to the centre pin, the red was floating but had probably been making contact with something inside the heatshrink, while the braid went to the connector sleeve. At the splice, the braid and white were commoned - which I expected - but driving it at the 3.5mm connector was driving a short at the splice.
Surprising really, as the splice work was real neat. Hang on, the splice was
*original*, the connector replacement was the aftermarket cockup. Now to check the electret mic works properly, having focussed on Rx audio up till now.
Crikey, Stealth, you didn't need to pull it apart. I was hoping someone actually had one in bits or had the info written down already. Many thanks for your endeavour. And how did you get into the speakers? This set (Mk II) seems all glued/welded.
P.S. Heard anything from Andrew P. of recent year?
when you put the dave clark seals on they will initially be so tight that you may want to cut them to make the hole bigger to get them to fit. DONT CUT THEM. it stuffs them up totally. They do actually fit although it is a bit snug initially.
would you believe it. today my passenger headset developed a darn wire break. I'll just have to shorten a lead and resolder. since it is a hybrid of three manufacturers efforts cant see anyone actually fixing it for me.
bose helicopter headset speakers in some english cheapie set with dave clark ear seals.
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